The Pinay Solo Backpacker

A serene beach with fine sand and pine trees, Apuao Grande Island is located in Mercedes, Camarines Norte. It  is one of the Mercedes Group of Islands: Canimog Island,  Quinapagihan Island, Caringo Island, Malasugui Island and Canton Island.

This resort is owned by Swagman Hotel Chain (in Malate) , a group of Australian entrepreneurs and 1 Filipina lawyer . The resort used to be a famous destination in the 80′s but now it’s being sold for Php35M and has only 1 guesthouse left for rent.

I reached Daet via bus and immediately looked for the jeep station bound to Mercedes.  The jeep stopped at a busy outskirt. I walked towards the port and asked about boats going to the resort. I was surprised that there’s none but one local pointed me towards a small gas station and told me I could hitch a ride to one of the boats of the fishermen.

Mercedes port

I asked the boy sitting uncomfortably at the port. He’s waiting for his father and his siblings to catch fish overnight. Then came an old timid fisherman carrying a huge gallon of gas.  He agreed to let me ride not even asking for anything. He said I could give him any amount.  They are actually living at the same island. All the while I thought Apuao Grande Island covers the entire island but the resort is only a small part of the island, the rest is a remote fishing community.

my ride

The resort is empty when we arrived, there’s a 2 storey-house and a guesthouse.  The fisherman’s kids assisted me towards the island, they don’t wanna leave me alone there. So they looked for the caretaker in the resort. I was left standing in the house not moving because of the huge black dog.

an island covered with pine trees adjacent to Apuao Grande Island

The kid introduced me to the caretaker. The 1st thing I asked her is the rate of an overnight stay. The guesthouse is worth Php2,500. It has 2 huge rooms good for 10 people.  She looked at me and said, ” I’ll give it to you for Php 500 but we won’t turn on the generator. “  I didn’t know that there’s no electricity in the island but I agreed.

After unpacking my things, I explored the island.

The rest of the island is a fishing village, a few houses that’s close o the resort are actually owned by Australians, some are for sale. They are foreigners who married Filipinas but most of them are gone now.

a house for sale owned by an Australian

I spent the afternoon at one of the house of an Australian and a Filipina couple, it’s now being occupied by the latter’s mother and her siblings. The old woman was gardening when I passed by, she saw me swimming in the beach earlier that day and she invited me to their house.  Her daughter married the Australian and bought the house in the resort but they don’t own the land, they still pay for the lot’s rent each month. She showed me every corner of their house and the pictures of her family and her daughter’s wedding with the Australian.

the beach on the way to the fishing village

Her lovely grand-daughter tag along with me to the fishing village. We bought some snacks and drinks for my entire stay. We spent the rest of the afternoon at their small cottage.  Sometimes they do offer their house to tourists when the resort guesthouse  is full or they allow camping w/ fee in their grounds. She said  that the only problem with the beach is  that sometimes  there is jellyfish  everywhere.

As the sun slowly disappeared at the horizon of the beach. I bid goodbye to the old woman and walked back to the guesthouse. The path is covered by huge trees and grasses and some timid animals.

The caretaker was kind enough to share the lights until 9pm, she visited me and let me borrowed an improvised tiny fan which is being run by the battery used in a jeep.  She even slept on the floor of the sala so she can be sure I’m safe, while his husband stayed at the house . That night they invited me to watch TV, they have a 14-inch black and white TV and even brought me a dinner for free saying it’s a fresh catch. A lot of things in that island reminds me of my childhood, from the battery of jeep being used to run the fan (we also use that during brown outs in the province when we we’re young), the fresh catch, and the 14 inch black and white TV.

The next day, a breakfast is served on the table.  I had a good conversation with the caretaker an even showed me the old pictures of the Swagman Group during the resort’s fame in the 80′s.  I felt sad though for the abandoned resort.  I think the resort just lacks good marketing. But the caretaker said the owners are determined to sell it, their focus is on the Hotel Chain in Malate.

Here are the remains of the abandoned resort…

the billiards room

the cottages

my lil guide @ what used to be the resort's 9-hole golf course

Since there’s no fishing boat that would go to Mercedes.  The caretaker asked his humble husband to take me to the neighboring island ( My bad, I forgot the names and the island’s name. I lost my notes and my original pix were deleted so I’m recounting this trip based on my multiply pictures). Then,  I took a tricycle to the port and boarded a small “ferry” to Mercedes port.

the small ferry, fare is Php3 only!!!!

inside the ferry

He said that’s what they normally do especially during typhoons. They cross the other island  near Mercedes port and they spend the day or night there until the storm is over.  You can also hire boats from that island . The caretaker’s husband pointed to me the other islands. My next stop –> Calaguas Island can’t even be seen from that point.

All in all,  I like Apuao Grande Island. The fine sand, the clear serene waters, the pine trees, the naturally friendly neighborhood and some things that reminds me of my childhood. It’s a good get-away when your in Bicol, away from the overcrowded beaches.

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