The Pinay Solo Backpacker

Because of the King’s birthday celebration the night before I toured Dusit district, the guards told me it is closed to the public.  Dusit Park is a relatively modern and spacious area north of Ko Rattanakosin, established during the reign of the celebrated King Chulalongkorn (Rama V). Upon his return from Europe in1897,the king used his personal money to purchase orchards and paddy fields between Padung Krungkasem Canal and Samsen Canal for the construction of a royal garden which he named “the Dusit Garden”.

You may start this tour from the northern end of  Ratchadamnoen Nok Avenue where it meets Si Ayutthaya Road.  From the starting point facing the Equestrian Statue of King Rama V, turn right onto Si Ayutthaya Road and walk  a few steps straight and there’s you’ll will find on the right side, the Marble Temple or Wat Benchamabophit.

The entrance fee is 20 Bhat , and proper dress is required but in case you’re wearing a sleeveless top like me, they’ll let you borrow those colorful shawls.  I noticed that inside the ubosoth though, unlike any other temples in Bangkok, there are no  Thai mural temple paintings on the walls.  But the windows and doors outside still has this intricately carved Thai warriors which are  a characteristic of most Thai temples.  Enshrined inside the temple is the presiding Buddha image, Phra Phutthachinnarat, which  is a bronze replica of the original statue of the Sukhothai period found in Wat Mahathat in Phitsanulok province in the North of Thailand.

After returning the shawl that I borrowed, I took  a quick walk at the back of the main building and found a series of Buddha statues in different postures and styles. They are actually images found in neighboring Asian countries like Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar, Tibet and even from Japan.

When in Marble Temple, taking a walk in the entire compound is recommended. I particularly enjoyed sitting beside the canal w/ the friendly doves, savoring the serenity and fresh air of the place.   I  noticed a huge Bodhi tree (the tree under which the Buddha attained enlightenment) right beside the  temple. Beneath the holy tree is a burial site for monks.  It is said that, the present king, Rama IV, spent time as a monk here. After a brief rest, I walked through the short bridge towards the houses of the monks and other buildings inside.

Once you’re done with the Marble temple, you can now walk back to the starting point, where  you can find the Equestrian Statue with a majestic dome building Ananda Samakhom Throne Hall at the back.  Contrary to what I mostly read online, this Italian architecture inspired hall is open to the public because of the posh Thai art exhibits inside. Unfortunately, photography is prohibited inside the hall and even outside once you’re inside the gate, but I managed to steal a photo of  this magnificent hall.

So if you’ve visited the Grand Palace, the ticket to the Dusit Palaces is  already included and is usable within 7 days from the date of purchase. But if not, you can pay an entrance fee.  Since I arrived there past noon already, I headed toVimanmek Mansion first since it closes earlier  at 3:15pm. Unlike in the Grand Palace where  you can borrow  shawls and wrap around, in Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall if you’re not wearing the proper outfit (see bottom of this post for details), you have to buy  them.  It cost me 45B for a plain wrap around.   If you’re  looking for Thai exquisite arts, then this is a must-see!  I wish I could show you how it looks inside, but sadly, photography are strictly prohibited.

Ananda Samakhom Throne Hall was opened to the public due to the success of the Arts of the Kingdom V Exhibition held in late December 2007 and has now a permanent exhibition.  It displayed the masterpiece handiwork created by members of agricultural families, who learned Thai artistic skills from the Chitralada Arts and Crafts Centre under H.M. the Queen’s Royal Patronage. Some delicate works shown here are the replicas of royal thrones and barges, embroidered screens, silks, Silverware, Neilloware or Krueng Thom, Khram and more.  Each piece of work has an English label describing its details. English narration with a headset is also available (fee is 50B). I like the embroidered screens best which is done by tons of artisans, especially the Himavan forest which is crafted in traditional style of embroidery. It took 2 years & 6 months to finish it w/ 160 artisans working on it. And I was completely mesmerized with the ceiling of this magnificent  hall, depicting another Buddhist story in renaissance architecture.

After admiring the beauty of the exquisite Thai masterpieces, you can visit the souvenir shop or eat and enjoy the spectacular view of the Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall from the coffee shop located at the back of the building.

The Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall is another beautifully designed  building with carved floral motifs on panels adorning the gables and eaves.  It is a treasure house of handicraft representing the finest in Thai artistry and craftsmanship. These are the products of work sponsored by the  Foundation for the Promotion of Supplementary Occupations and Related Techniques or SUPPORT Foundation.  Again, the foundation was established under the royal patronage of HM Queen Sirikit to preserve traditional Thai art and handicraft and to assist rural folks in marketing their work to augment their incomes.

Once you’re done, you can now turn left  then ask the guard or follow the signage leading you to the most famous mansion in the Dusit Garden —> the elegant 81-room Vimanmek Palace, also known as Vimanmek mansion which is hailed as the largest golden teak wood mansion in the world!  It’s the first permanent residence in Dusit Garden. Its elaborate architectural style reflects a western influence reflecting Rama V’s general love of things western, and is filled with an amazing collection of pieces of art, jewelry, antiques, paintings and photos from Europe and elsewhere. There are altogether 31 exhibition rooms, some of which maintain the atmosphere of the past, especially the bedrooms, the Audience Chamber and the bathrooms. Some rooms house exhibitions of art works, for example, there is a silverware display room, a ceramic display room, a glassware display room and an ivory display room. There’s a free English guided tour in the mansion, and each tour is only about 15 minutes. No photography allowed, even cellphones are asked to be left behind. It cost me 20B for a huge locker. You’d have to wait in the lobby for instructions for your turn to tour. After the tour, you are now allowed to take a picture of the mansion outside.

Mind you though, there are other equally important exhibit houses inside, I was pressed for time so I didn’t get to tour them all, but the ones I featured here are the  top attractions of the Dusit Garden.  Alright, so after the awesome experience at the Dusit Palaces, you may now head to the Dusit Zoo and relax.  But I didn’t get inside the zoo, I’m not a fan of  zoos, as much as possible I don’t want to patronize them. Peeping from the outside though, I saw the lush green  surroundings and large ponds with foot-paddle boats, playgrounds for the kids and shady picnic areas.

Indeed, Thai culture and Bangkok attractions cannot be experienced and enjoyed through the glass panes of a moving taxi, or on the back of a loud tuk-tuk!  So once you hit Bangkok, discover exciting places at your own risk, it’s a must! And perhaps you’ll never have to wonder why many tourists keep coming back to the “City of Angels”.

How to get to Dusit Park in Bangkok:
Ordinary bus number 70 stops on Uthong Nai road, which is between Vimanmek Mansion and Dusit Zoo. Ordinary buses 18, 28 and 108 and air-conditioned number 16 stop on Ratchawithi road, slightly north. Ordinary buses 56, 72, 99, 110 and air-conditioned bus 9 all stop nearby also. River transport isn’t really the best option either, as the nearest piers Tha Thewet and Tha Wasukri is still a couple of kilometers away, and there’s no buses near the piers.

Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall:

Open every day 9.30 a.m. – 4.00 p.m. except on Chulalongkorn Day (23 October), the King’s birthday (05 December) and the Queen’s birthday (12 August).

Admission fee: 150B

-Shorts and sleeveless shirts are not allowed. Women are required to wear appropriate length skirts only. The museum offers Thai wrap skirts and shawls at low prices.

-The Grand Palace tour tickets can be used here within 7 days after purchasing date.

Vimanmek Mansion:

-Open every day 9:30am-3:15pm

-Tickets Sold until 3pm

-The last group tour starts at 3:15pm.

-Map for taxi or phone: 02-628-6300

Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall

Daily 9:30 am-4 pm

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