The Pinay Solo Backpacker

Bangkok is in chaos, it’s all over the news and I am clueless because I haven’t watched the TV  for more or less 2 months!  I can’t cancel my flight, I’ve been waiting for this trip since January, besides, it’s a big hassle since I paid cash for the expensive airfare since there’s no promo on my flight dates.

Siem Reap after sunset, taken during New Year in Cambodia

While most tourists would spend 2-3 days in Siem Reap, I opted to stay for 1 week.  Like I said, after my quick trip to Ayutthaya, I vowed never to be in a hurry in one country again as it defies the real essence of traveling.

The plane touched down at 12 am at BKK airport, again, I wasn’t able to to register on Roaming, so my phone is plain useless.  Like before I slept at the airport until sunrise.  I was so pre-occupied during the past few months that I failed to plan my Cambodia trip, I didn’t even change my peso to US$ before leaving the Philippines which was a BIG mistake!!!  Left me no choice but change my peso to US$ at BKK airport, but the employee at the money exchange refuse saying, it’s not good for me, Php100 is converted to US$1!!  What!!??? Oh, well,  I have no choice.

Lesson 1. Exchange your Peso to US$ before leaving the country.

my Thai food from 7Eleven

I went down to the 2nd floor to buy Thai foods at 7Eleven which is becoming my favorite as I can’t afford the exorbitant prices of the restaurants inside the airport.  The ready-to-eat meal which you can just heat in the microwave cost 35-45B and water is 10B up. Way cheaper! That’s Lesson 2.

how to sleep at Bangkok Airport

After my modest meal, I started to secure a bed ( interconnected chairs in the airport lounge)  for my 6 hours of sleep.  At 6am, I will commute to the North Bus Terminal to getto Aranyaprathet, Thailand then cross the border to Poipet , Cambodia and hopefully arrive safely in Siem Reap, Cambodia.

I hopped in to the free shuttle bus at the airport by 6am to the Transport Center, then took bus 55 to Victory Monument then took another bus to the North Bus terminal well-known as Mo Chit  Terminal . When  you get there, the bus station will read Chatuchak , don’t panic, you are at the right terminal.  But when commuting , it is advisable to tell the driver you are going to Mochit not Chatuchak if you don’t wanna end up at the weekend market.

Victory Monument

At the North Bus terminal, I paid 220B for the 1st class bus.  It was a 5 hour bus ride.  The difference between the 1st class and the 2nd class bus?  You get a SMALL juice, some  SMALL cookies and if you’re lucky a comfortable chair.

At the checkpoint, a young Thai man in his military uniform stepped inside the bus.  I was sitting beside a Thai in his mid-50′s,  and my RED backpack and my large weapon-like tripod in front of me. The guy in front of me was interrogated by the young military, unfortunately,  my stuff  caught the officers eye.  I changed outfit at the airport, I was wearing a shirt I bought from KSR, and with my sun-kissed tone, my black wavy hair, and small eyes, I am often mistaken as either a Thai or Cambodian.  He started speaking to me in his native language.  “I don’t understand.,” I said.  He then turned to the local beside me and I can tell  from the way he nodded his head, he denied that we’re  acquainted.  The officer then spoke to me in Thai again.  “I’m going to Cambodia”, I said.  As far as I’ve seen  in some movies,  Thailand prison cells are like the typical crowded, unsanitary and  infamous jails in the Philippines. Waaaahhh!!! I’m overthinking again!  I can’t help it!  At that point I know I have to calm myself down though deep inside my heart started to beat so fast.  I have to prove to him I’m a Filipino tourist.  So I grabbed my passport inside my sling bag and showed it to him.  He looked at it and said, “Ahhh, Filipino!”   He handed back my passport and as he stepped out of the bus with the guy in front of me, he looked at me and flashed a smile and waived his hand. Whew! I started gaining weird stares from the people on board.  And to escape it, I went back to sleep as if nothing happened. But, that incident really scared me to death!

Lesson 3.  Whenever I travel abroad, I guess it’s better to program my mind, that misadventures happens but then mishaps like that makes  the journey worthwhile. I’ll never stop learning you know!

Lane 116 at the North Bus Terminal (bus to Aranyaprathet,Thailand)

At the border, I took out my Thailand-Cambodia overland cheat-sheet that was sent by Marcos. I highlighted the travel warning:Lesson 4: The motor and the tuktuk will bring you to a non-official agency claiming to process visa, refuse it, ask the driver to send you directly to border-crossing.

I  planned to share a ride with the 2 young British teenagers  but they look like snobs so I went looking for a motor taxi. You know, it is  not true that whenever you travel you don’t judge people. Believe me, you do, though oftentimes it is unintentional.  I guess,  it is innate to humans  especially when they are in a culture or a land that is foreign to them.  But  the important  thing is, you still keep an open mind, stay flexible and suck in the whole experience!  It’s Lesson 5!

I opted to back ride with a woman driver, her face is half-covered with a piece of cloth, she quoted me 50B for that ride.  As expected, she took me to the agency for visa, and I saw the rest of the tourist where taken there too by their respective tuktuk.  A Thai guy in his slong sleeves,  met me and ask me to sit inside, he asked me for my passport and said, oh, Filipino, visa is free but you have to pay 300B for processing and yada yada yada. ” Crazy!  Free visa but I have to pay 300B!???  Ahhh, the notorious “visa scam!”, I murmured.  NO!, then I grabbed my passport and  I turned to the motor taxi driver and demanded to take me to the border directly.  She did, despite my rowdy attitude.

We stopped for the red light. A 4×4 passed by with kids behind it armed with water guns and pails. I suddenly remembered, oops, I’m still in Thailand and it’s Sokhran holiday! After a few seconds, the kid threw a small pail of water on me!  Comm’ on!  My Sling bag is not water proof and my precious camera is inside!!!  Waaaahhh! But before I can even complain, the light went green.  So as the driver started the engine, I hurriedly checked my camera inside.  Did the universe conspired again to make this trip a disaster!?  Good God, my camera is still working but I’m all wet!

The driver stopped at the “real visa border” and I still thanked her despite her attempt to cheat on me.  I guess the soft side of me understands why they have to do it, to make a living of course!  Sometimes, it’s not what they do, but why they do it.  That’s the downside to the rise of  tourism, it is directly proportional to the exploitation of tourists.

Now, you are about to read my BLATANT  STUPIDITY!!  And I wish after reading this, I won’t lose whatever respect  you have left for me!

I really can’t help but laugh whenever I remember this incident…

border of Aranyaprathet,Thailand

So, I walked towards the border,  and being born and raised in the Philippines, where we’re used to walking on the right side, I seem to have forgotten that it’s exactly the opposite in Thailand, so I kept following the right lane.  I guess because I was so darn tired and my brain is already malfunctioning that I didn’t even noticed that everyone I met seems to have come from the border instead on the right lane, a clear indication that it’s the entrance to Thailand.  But because I am STUPID, I still continued to walk, and the guard didn’t even stopped me!  I was about to enter when I read on the door that it is the EXIT door.  So I peeped inside to look for the entrance, and I saw a ticket booth  a few steps away. I asked the girl manning the booth, ” Where is the visa border to Cambodia?“.  She might have misunderstood me and pointed me towards  the same direction I’m walking.

I   did notice the paper  I just filled out is written in Thai and there’s no mention of Cambodia or whatever pertaining to it,  but because I am STUPID I didn’t question it  and I still queued up.  Then a Cambodian girl who works in Thailand on the other lane started a quick talk, everyday she has to get a pass to cross between the 2 countries.  My face lightened up when she mentioned she lives in Siem Reap, I planned to ask the girl if I could stay at her place (of course I intend to pay her for my stay), as humanly as possible, I prefer to stay at a local’s house than to sleep in a hostel during my trips.  I noticed in Cambodia, people are friendlier to tourist, I guess the confidence is strengthened by their proficiency in English.  Even the little kids  can speak to you in straight English. But as one of the Cambodian child vendor disclosed, they only SPEAK  English, but they can’t read nor write it.

The lane on my right side opened and the immigration officer called me. I handed her my passport , then I saw that  huge question mark  on her face.  She then started to question me, Why am I there and yada yada… Then she called her colleagues and they we’re all talking in Thai. My heart started thumping so fast again, ” Oh no, what’s the matter now!?”.   “When did you arrive in Bangkok?”, she asked in a bossy tone.  ” Earlier today, and I went straight here TO GO TO Cambodia, ” I answered.  She turned back to her colleagues again, then they started asking,“Then why are you here?  How did you get here? By plane?”.  I said ,” No, by bus from Thailand.“  She browsed my passport again and asked the same questions again, so I explained my route over and over.  Talk about language barrier. 

You know the way victims looks at suspects?  I started getting such looks. It’s such a shame! And worst, I’m affected! I wanted to cry but I had to fight it back. “I did nothing wrong what’s the matter? At that point, I lost my patience and got annoyed with the redundant questions. I asked the Thai Immigration official in a raucous tone,  “What’s the matter why don’t you want me to cross?  If you don’t want me to cross the border then I’ll just go back to Bangkok, so can I just get back my passport!? ” , with my hand trying to grab it.  A big NO, slammed my face, and the officer pulled back my passport”.

The same question went on and on for about 30 minutes.  At that point, I am scared big time and furious at the same time! “Now what will they do to me? Will they put me in jail? Will they confiscate my passport? Will I ever get back to the Philippines? What have I done wrong? Then, the officer called another Immigration officer,  this time it’s a guy.  He faced me, and asked me,”Why are you here? I said,” I am GOING TO Cambodia. ” Then he revised his question,” How did you get in this building?” . I told him I asked the lady at the ticket window and he directed me there. He knocked my head and laugh.  STUPID me!  He spoke w/ the other immigration officers and they all get it.  He escorted me to the left side of the building for  the Thai immigration to stamp my passport.  
Alright so that was albeit forgivable!  But I have put myself on real shame with the Thai Immigration when after having stamped on the left building to exit Aranyaprathet, I went back to the right building to the entrance to Thailand from Poipet!  What was I thinking!!!???  So the moment I walked in, the Thai Immigration officer  shouted and walked back to me.  She then assisted me towards the door and showed me the gate and all to exit to Poipet.

Lesson 6.   I guess the most important lesson of all  I learned that day is –> Use your common sense!!!  Ouch! 

I have read in most articles that Thai Immigration officers are the worst  in the world.  But with this incident, I guess I’ve proved the world wrong!

the border between Aranyaprathet, Thailand & Poipet, Cambodia

In front of the building is a health check station and you will be asked to stop and fill out a form. This station was put up  in response to the SARS or bird flu scare years ago.

By the way, you have to walk to the right side for the Cambodia passport control,  that’s  aside from the health check station. I was able to get to Poipet without being stamped but after seeing the other tourists walked towards the Cambodia Immigration post, I walked back to avoid another mistake.

Darn!  I have no pen! So,  I borrowed from another tourist.

Lesson 7. Always bring a pen when traveling!

I didn’t pay anything because Cambodia is a visa-free country for Filipinos.  The rest of the tourist paid $20 each.  I walked hurriedly towards Poipet. Yay!  I’m officially in Cambodia!  Then my quick  moment of happiness was broken when the tuktuk and cab drivers swarmed me!   There’s no public bus here, they all said. Oops!  Now how do I get to Siem Reap from Poipet!??  I saw a bus parked there but it seems like a tourist bus to me and there’s no driver and the drivers around me are starting to annoy me.  I’m already exhausted, after all  the misadventures that day, getting in trouble alone again is the last thing I need.  So I went back to the Cambodia Immigration center and  I approached a foreigner guy and  asked him wether I can join him and his friends. He gladly said ,YES.  He said he’s just waiting for the other 2 tourists whom he just met, he asked me wether I have a place to stay already and I said none yet.  I showed him a printed copy of what I researched online or rather what Marcos researched.  It’s $3 at the Green House, “Pretty cheap,”he said, “let’s get to that then!”  Then the Laos guesthouse on the paper caught his eyes. “You’re going to Laos??”  “Yes, I hope, “I answered. He then offered to exchange his Laos money.  He can’t exchange it outside Laos and he’s going home to US after 3 years  so the money would be useless to him. I don’t have enough cash with me so I told  him I’ll exchange it upon withdrawing cash in Cambodia.  It’s just a few dollars, around 300B maybe.

Poipet: a filthy border town of casinos

The 2 tourists are both from Ireland and they’ve been to the Philippines!  We rode the tourist bus I saw earlier.  The guy is really good looking (I think he looks like Brad Pitt but okay, she’s already with this beautiful simple African girl). They’re very friendly, they’re so excited to meet a Filipina traveling solo.  I remember the Cambodian tour operator told me went I went back to  Bangkok via the same route, “I rarely see Filipinos who travel, they come here to work”.  He was right of course.  Anyway, the 2 Irish backpackers  just visited the Philippines.  Donsol in Sorsogon, Mayon, Hundred Islands and other usual routes in the Lonely Planet  Philippines guidebook.

The bus ride took around 5 hours  I was sitting beside Josh, the American guy I approached earlier. Saw him browse his passport. Cool! It’s overwhelming with stamps! “ Backpacking? “, I asked.  “No, not actually, I’m based in Japan, as an English teacher. I travel from time to time and  just feel like I should tour Asia before I head back home to the US. Finally! ” I saw the excitement glared in his eyes, finally being able to come home after all these years, ahhh that is complete happiness and that’s my dream too, tour the world and finally come home!!!

Lesson 8. Whenever traveling, use your charm and join some other travelers in transit to the next destination if you feel it’s not safe to go solo, that’ll save you a lot and start new acquaintances or friendships.

somewhere in Cambodia

We stopped at a simple restaurant which is of course associated w/ the tour bus again. The food costs around 99B each and it’s all American dishes.  Just like in the Philippines, bus companies would have an agreement with certain restaurants, they will agree to stop over there, in return the drivers will get free meals.  I saw some tourists cross the street instead.  I followed them but I didnt cross the street anymore. I am hungry for Cambodian street foods!  I didn’t go all the way to Cambodia, just to eat all that American dishes we have back home!

Cambodian kids' playing

” Ahhh…so this is Cambodia!“, I murmured as I chanced up with some small kids playing something like those  Filipino games we used to play in the province, only that, theirs involves some cash.

I didn’t know if I  can take the food so I didn’t buy one, maybe I was distracted by the poor little chicks on a pen that are for sale and beside it lies dead chickens and it’s intestines. I am used to eating street foods in the Philippines,  but it’s probably the way they cook it and grill it in Cambodia that’s not appealing to me, like the grilled chicken with it’s feet. Back home, chicken feet is  sold separately.  I bought 2 soft drinks in can instead.  Thai street  foods are still the best for me.

street foods somewhere in Cambodia

Okay, so I was with Josh, the 2 Irish and the 2 American couples.  They took out their  LP  guidebook and said we we’re in the wrong route.  I was just smiling to myself, of course, this is a tourist bus, they will most likely take us to the guest house connected with the tour operators.  But you’d be given a choice of course, to stay or find a room somewhere else.

arrival in Siem Reap : Happy New Year!!!

We arrive at 8PM already and  we’re checking the rooms. But of course, I couldn’t share the room w/ Josh, so while they were looking for a bigger  and better . I decided that I’d get my own space, at $5 a day for a fan room  or $7 a day for an ac room, I could manage to survive in 1 week.  Besides  I couldn’t walk  around  in my undergarments or throw my things everywhere if I have a roommate. My room is just so messy whenever I travel.

lobby of our guesthouse : much better compared to my BKK guesthouse! lol

I didn’t see Josh and the rest of the guys anymore, except for one of the couples. She was talking to another tourist girl in the lobby whose been staying at the guesthouse  to get an idea about the place, she said she got a good feedback.  I thanked her and bid goodbye, and ask her to thank the rest of the guys for me.  Okay, so that was so rude of me, joining those guys and not even bidding goodbye was my gravest mistake that day. tsk tsk. That’s Lesson 9!

my humble room

I contemplated on writing every detail of  this overland because I feel like I’ll be putting myself in such a disgrace but I realized that announcing  my STUPID mistake in public will help prevent another one.  Makes me wanna plan my future travels to the max ! Being prepared may help prevent BLATANT STUPIDITY!!!  Now that’s Lesson 10!

Experience indeed is the most brutal of all teachers. But what I like about  mishaps is,  it keeps me down to my toes!

somewhere in Siem Reap lies a school for the monks and a cemetery inside it's grounds

Copyright secured by Digiprove © 2010 Gael Hilotin

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