It’s 4am but I’m already awake in my room at New Emperors Palace Pension in Iloilo City. I couldn’t figure out my next destination. I reached for my backpack on the side table of my bed and took out the flyer I got from Iloilo airport’s tourism division. As much as possible, I wanna include a visit to a remote place on my trips and my 1st choice was Bucari in Leon. I texted my friend Marcos . He replied, “‘ I have to warn you though, trekking is hard, it’s a very remote sitio, and it’s as lush as it’s in my pictures post-typhoon Frank.”
Being a probinsyana, I am so used to trekking (except for Tappiya falls in Batad! ) so I wasn’t scared, but I need to go back at the end of the day. I looked up my map to check out which sitio is closest to Iloilo City … and I decided to go to Igbaras! 

my guide to Igbaras
I don’t wanna bother asking Marcos for directions anymore as he seems tired from his night out. I went out to look something to eat and found a 24hr internet cafe instead just right beside my hostel. I went inside and browsed the internet for directions. I found a write up by Mon Corpuz, a photographer and one of the coordinators of The Black Pencil Project, a group of photographers, whose committed to provide pencils to early learners (Day Care to Grade 3) of select public elementary schools from beneficiaries of remote and or indigenous communities of the Philippines. . He was just there a few days ago. I have no idea how to go there, I checked the official website of Igbaras but to no avail, only to find out after my trip that Marcos has a detailed article about the place. ![]()
I went back to bed knowing it’s just 5am, but I overslept so I started my road trip around 8am already. I asked the woman selling fruits at the sidewalk outside my pension house for directions but she doesn’t know it.
She then asked the 2 guys standing by my side. A stranger directed me to Jaro Liko Jeep, asked me to ask the driver to stop me at The Market and from there I could find jeeps bound to Igbaras.

on the road to Igbaras
The ride to Igbaras town is almost an hour. The jeep stopped in front of the Municipal Hall fronting a basketball court and some sari-sari stores and motorcycles for hire are parked on it’s right side. One driver hurriedly met me and asked where I’m going, he seems to have an idea already. Luckily, he was the driver that brought Mon to the falls some few days back. The fare is Php 60 one way, some drivers asked him to bring me to the tourism office so I can get a guide because there’s no sign of humans out there, but Manong Ricky, the driver, offered to be my guide, he didn’t set a price, “bahala na po kayo kung magkano”. And because he’s been kind enough and I have extra money for this trip, I paid him more than what I normally pay for a guide.
I agreed and ride at the back of his motorcycle. The only concern when going to such remote places is safety. It’s been said that the leftist group are thriving everywhere in that area but like I said before, I don’t think the NPA will hurt you if you won’t harm them. They know who their enemies are, they are smart people. Sadly, after my visit last February, the rebels allegedly opened fire near the elementary school of Igcabugao, Igbaras. 

The ride was bumpy, we passed by a series of mountains, rolling hills, huge rocks, rivers and streams, dry paddy fields, farmlands, bamboos and forested areas. The concrete bridge was severely damaged by the typhoon last year, so a make-shift bridge was built where only humans, bikes and single motorcycles can pass. 

the temporary bridge
After a few minutes, we reached the outpost at Bgry. Passi, where a customary registration in a log book is required for security reasons. So just in case someone would get lost, stuck out there or something, they would know.

There are other attractions in the area but some may need an overnight stay at Mt.Napulak, which is also a home to one of the largest flower in the world, the rafflesia. 

Manong Ricky showing me the way
Manong Ricky escorted me to the Nagsanjan falls. The trek isn’t so hard but still, it took a couple of minutes for us to reach it.
The area can be muddy during rainy seasons and a bit dangerous as the river would overflow. Good thing it’s the dry season that time. The surroundings is dry, and the hills around turned into orange and brown because of the summer heat. Still the view is beautiful, a haven for eco-tourism and adventure indeed! 

the rocky river on way to the falls

the clear waters of the river
Nagsanjan falls is a bit dry because of the climate but you can take a dip in its cold waters, but if you’re no good swimmer, be careful and hold on to the bamboos on the waters because the water is really deep. Above the falls , one can’t help but notice a huge towering marble dome. Igbaras has caves and other falls to offer that are tucked somewhere in the mountains thus attracting trekkers and mountaineers than the usual tourist.

Nagsadjan Falls
Manong Ricky, my guide,was born in Guimaras, he even showed me his Driver’s license to prove it, he also used to drive a jeep in Muntinlupa-Alabang route, but he moved to Igbaras when he married. “Life is better here, it’s peaceful and simple,” he said. After his chaotic life in Manila, he couldn’t trade this peaceful life in this province 

i heart Igbaras
Upon seeing how excited I was to see paddy fields again, he offered to tour me up one of the hills where a public high school & a small chapel is standing on top of it overlooking the paddy fields and rice terraces. 
I really like it there, especially the school made of cheap materials like bamboo and anahaw, reminds me of my high school days back in our province, exactly what I’ve been looking for, something reminiscent of my past. I so miss the simple laid back life!

paddy fields and rice terraces everywhere
After a taste of nostalgia, we left and Manong Ricky dropped me at the hotel as I wanted to grab something to drink and eat. I’m starving as I haven’t eaten breakfast or lunch! Surprisingly, there’s a small hostel in this quaint town and on it’s ground floor is a convenience store, too bad there’s no rice meal.

a single room at Igbaras Golden Shoppers Village
Luckily, an old man working for an NGO & tourism department of the local government approached me while I’m enjoying my ice drop. He introduced me to the hotel owner, an Ilongga who is based in Australia and is on vacation that time. She had me taste a unique dish from the hotel, it’s made of gabi, gata and the small shells thriving in rice paddies. Yummy! Now I’m full!
After our short conversation, which revolved around how the local government of Igbaras should work on promoting this ruggedly beautiful town, I had to leave because I wanted to catch the sunset in Guimaras and I have 3 hours to go…
THEpinaysolobackpacker supports responsible and sustainable tourism.
***To volunteer or donate for The Black Pencil Project click HERE.***
How to get to Igbaras:
Look for jeepneys bound to Igbaras at the Iloilo Terminal Market. The jeep will stop at the Igbaras town proper where you can hire a motorcycle to Brgy. Passi beside the Municipal Hall and hire the driver as your guide. But if you wanna hike Mt.Napulak and see the rafflesia, you can coordinate with the local tourism office at the Municipal Hall for your means of transportation and guide. The trek from jump off point in Bgry. Passi to Nadsadjan Falls may take 15-20 minutes.
Driver / Guide:
Manong Ricky – 09069299849
Accomodation:
Igbaras Golden Shoppers Village
Rizal St. Igbaras, Iloilo 5029
Phone/fax:+63 33 315 6278
Email: info@igbarasgolden.com
website: www.igbarasgolden.com
About the Blogger : Gael is a Filipina solo adventurer, a dream chaser and a student of life. Her (mis) adventures are documented in this blog. Follow her on Facebook and Twitter.
For advertisement, partnerships and sponsorship, click here. or email me at thepinaysolobackpacker(at)yahoo(dot)com
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Thank so much Pinay Solo Backpacker! Yes, Igcabugao is a project site. We hope to bring more action to the place.
Pencils up!
/Mon
ang ganda ng view! kaso parang ang init nung pumunta ka ate. haha.
Panay is brilliant, isn’t it? I grew up in Panay so yeah, may bias ako.
))))
Hi Allen!
hahaha truly! tagtuyot tlga!
I didn’t grow up in Panay but it’s close to my heart like the Cordilleras. Panay is spellbinding.
na, no time to visit the place. will be leaving tomorrow for davao. parang ang init lang. hahaha
hi estan! honga eh, tanghali kase yan.
Enjoy Davao! sarap naman ng unlimited air fare!
ang weird pero biglang nagbalik alala ang sagada at lalawigang bulubundukin sakin. never tot na me mga mountainous areas din pala ang visayas…at me mini rice terraces din…..
wish we had more time in iloilo! malapit na ba to sa nipple mountain? hahaha
haha sira ka edwon! it was nice meeting you dear!
Gusto ko rin pumunta dyan wah. Sa Igbaras ka ba nagdala ng pencils?
nice gael! Pupunta kami sa Iloilo this March. I’m looking for places to go to. haha. Sana mapuntahan din namin ito.
ironic as it seems, i havent been to this part of iloilo. hope to go there during the holiday season when im home.
hello. luv your post. parang ansarap mag unwind. eniweys- do u hav contact numbers at emperor’s palace in ilo-ilo? do they hav wifi? tnx.
Hi! Thanks for the very detailed and inspiring itinerary. I plan to do the same in August, and I was wondering:
- How many days you spent in Iloilo, and then in Guimaras?
- How much was your total pocket money for the whole trip?
Many thanks for your reply, and here’s to more travels!
– KAT
Iloilo is pretty cheap, you can get a room as cheap as Php 200. But Guimaras is kind expensive so I suggest you do a day trip in Guimaras and leave before 7pm (last boat from Guimaras to Iloilo). I can’t remember my pocket money, but around 3k-4k will do. Splurge on the food in Iloilo. hehe Around 3-4 days would be enough to cover Iloilo City including Miag-ao and Guimaras. Have fun
Hi! Do you have the contact number(s) of New Emperor’s Palace Pension po? I badly need it, hope you can respond. Thank you!
No po. I lost it alrdy, But you can just walk in. Will try to find it in my files. Will get back to you
oooh! mt. Napulak – I wanna go here!!!
kelan ka punta? twice ako nagpunta,pero d po ako naakyat eh, sa falls lang s Igbaras, tas s Igcabugao for black pencil. pero dun din ang jump off point ata to Napulak,u can use the same trike driver I used before, 2 lang sila na keri umakyat hanggang Igcabugao para mas shorter ang hike. hehe try mu contact si Marcos kase sila umakyat last year, i stayed s house nila s city last time.have fun! =)