The Pinay Solo Backpacker

This is one of the trips that I miss the most, a weekend get-away with my sisters.  After my Pundaquit trip I couldn’t contain my excitement to go back to Zambales and do the island hopping with my sisters –> Capones  Island, Anawangin Cove and the overshadowed Camara Island!

We were already on a bus to Pundaquit from Subic when I texted the boatman, and his reply was, ” The waves are huge, we couldn’t risk the boat and your safety.” “Bummer! It can’t be, we’re almost there !” , so I persuaded the boatman, since he is scheduled to pick up a family at Capones Island that that camped there.  He agreed, but we are to settle in the equally enchanting Capones Island  only, no island hopping. Although the exquisite rock formations and the rugged coastline of  this island is more than enough to call my attention, my main intent is to hike the sturdy yet lonesome lighthouse standing somewhere on the highest peak of  Capones.  It’s just one of the many lighthouses scattered everywhere in my dear Philippines which is featured in the monumental opus of Maximo Lopez del Castillo Noche’s  “The Lonely Sentinels of the Sea “ which I used to browse in National bookstore since I can’t afford it’s hefty price!

The South China Sea waves were mountainous. Our small boat would plunge down on the back of the wave, hit the bottom and would bury it’s bow into the upcoming wave.  The waves were splashing against us, filling the air with spray. We we’re sweating like pigs, grasping tightly to the side of the boat’s body and praying so hard every time the huge waves bashed our small boat as if it is about to swallow us in a few seconds.  That was a mere 20 minute boat ride, but it felt like eternity! Thankfully, we arrived safely but the boat almost capsized when  they picked up the family who carried with them rocks and sands from the island (ayan kase, take nothing but pictures!)

After throwing our bags to the  ground,we strolled around the island which is all ours! We climbed the hill with a spectacular view of the rough sea.  Capones  Island is endowed with stunning rock formations & picturesque topography.

Unfortunately, it’s not safe to swim there that time, like I mentioned, the waves are real mad and the current is so strong since the beach is facing the South China Sea.  So we just swam close to the shoreline since we’re not talented swimmers.

Although we’re raised in a town near the sea, until now we can’t swim!  Well, that’s an exaggeration, of course, we can swim, around 3-4 strokes maybe!?  Shame!

Since we don’t have the power to  tame the wild waves, we succumbed and transferred to the other side of the island,we walked through tall grasses that  dwarfed us. Unfortunately,  we found ourselves standing on a  filthy grayish-black sand,  shoreline full of dead corals and pebbles and underwater sand that is coarse to the feet.

After a few minutes  of solace, we decided to go back.

I explored the island on my own while my sisters were busy swimming.  Upon climbing the cliff, I was welcomed by rubbish! Tons of slippers stucked in-between the rocky part of the hill. I continued climbing, holding tightly to the rough dark-toned edges of  what seemed like slices of lava formed from the eruptions of  volcano some zillion years ago. On it’s top, I was rewarded by a full view of the vast sea and it’s untamed waves bashing against the rocks and the coastline of the island.

The rugged terrain and the abandoned lone structure somewhat contributed to the beautiful  strangeness of  Capones Island.  If it weren’t for the tall grasses that dominated me and kept me paranoid ( I was scared of snakes that might be hiding there somewhere) and the eerie silence, I would’ve continued the search for the lighthouse.  Despite it’s rise to fame, Capones  still poses an image of  an isolated enclave frozen in time, with no facilities to speak of, thereby making it possible to enjoy its rugged charm in solace unlike her sister Anawangin Cove which is overrun by campers. 

Capones Island is undoubtedly enchanting.  I like it’s  stunning rock formations, irregular landscape, dramatic coastline and the calmness  of  it’s surroundings contradicting the untamed waves.  But what I like best about Capones Island is…  there’s a sense of adventure and new discovery around every bend.

After basking in the sun for the past 6 hours, the boat finally arrived to pick us up.  We prepared ourselves with another  encounter with the turbulent waters of  the South China Sea.

March 2009 trip

Big thanks to my sisters Bluv, Cherbeth and his boyfriend Gary forthe happy memories!

And to Ate Fe and his husband, our boatman. Thank you!

THEpinaysolobackpacker supports  responsible and sustainable tourism. Save our Shores!

For Capones Travel Guide—> click HERE

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