The Pinay Solo Backpacker

*Update March 2013 – Also check out my Ilocos Norte Tavel Guidehere.

Ilocos Norte is another good reason I am addicted to North Luzon in the Philippines.  When you mention Ilocos Norte what comes to mind is the image of  Bangui Windmills, Paoay Church, Cape Bojeador, Patapat Viaduct and the white sand beaches of  Pagudpud.  This booming province has a lot to offer, it is blessed with waterfalls, and impressive rock formations hidden in its  long rugged coastline.

When touring  with a group in Ilocos Norte, you can take advantage of the tours offered by the tricycle drivers.  They have organized the tour into two parts: North (Pagudpud tour) and South (Bangui and Burgos tour) of  Ilocos Norte, the rate is Php600 (maximum 3 pax) or a half day tour, you can choose from either taking the North loop (Php 600/3 pax max) or the South loop (Php600/3 pax max).  I like the tricycle drivers from the South (Burgos town)  than those from the North (Pagudpud) because the latter is too commercialized  not to mention that the South tricycle drivers can offer a discounted rate.  So when coming from Laoag City, you can ask the bus driver to drop you to Junction Sawit in Burgos town, hire a tricycle driver to start your tour there.  Starting your tour in the South part (Burgos & Bangui) is practical then end it in North of  Ilocos Norte (Pagudpud) because there are more accommodations in the Pagudpud like cheap home stay  around  Saud beach.

But if you are alone and you’re in a budget, you can do-it-your own in the Northern part (Pagudpud tour) and I suggest you hire a tricycle in the Southern part (Bangui and Burgos)  and the driver will take care of the tour for you, otherwise be ready to endure long walks and the heat of the sun like what happened to me in Kapurpurawan.  But if you insist in doing the tour your own since you’re on a shoestring budget and you are alone, I have an upcoming Ilocos Norte Travel Guide specially written for you.

I woke up early in the morning to start my day tour in Pagudpud, Ilocos Norte, my kind of trip for late holidays.  I decided to take a brief walk to the beach passing by a make-shift bridge surrounded by coconut trees, and underneath is a small stream.  Like a typical fishing village, old nipa houses and a couple of fish nets are seen hanging in the trees beside the shore. Surprisingly, I chanced upon this timid white pony grazing.

The sun is nowhere, the sky is gloomy, as if it is about to rain  but the mighty Bangui windmills are all lined up at the horizon of the calm sea.   As early as  5am, the women and the children are  up already waiting by the shore for the fishermen, and in a few minutes, some boats started arriving, the women running to approach them, and started buying their fresh catch.  I wish I would’ve stayed in Saud Beach longer to witness more  of  the local’s life and perhaps make friends with them, but the tricycle driver who will tour me for half the day was already waiting patiently for me by the dilapidated hut.

We started the tour at  North of  Ilocos Norte, pretty close to Claveria, Cagayan and the first stop is no other than the Patapat Viaduct! Isn’t it strange how a road  that was built to prevent the perennial danger of landslides became one famous tourist spot?  I was trying to remember if it has a historical significance or something.  Nevertheless, the twin falls beside the long road and blue waters & waves of Pasaleng bay is a feast to my eyes.  Also, a shipwreck  dating from the Japanese occupation caught my eye.  Its been said that  treasure hunters and divers are treated to a wonderful diving experience here.

Our next stop is  a cold spring  turned into an infinity pool for the locals (entrance fee Php 25 for adults) overlooking the sea with mad waves and huge rocks, called Agua Grande.  Nothing special about this spring though just like our next stop.

Paraiso ni Anton (Anton’s Paradise), consists of running waters the lush green forest  to the highway with a stair leading to an image of Mother Mary. I tried to ask the driver who is Anton, but he doesn’t know either.

The tricycle then made a U-turn, swayed  past the highway and turned right into a smaller road  and finally stopped beside a marker that  read Timmangtang Rock (No Littering Fine Php 500), a bell-shaped rock located along the seacoast of  Sitio Gaoa, Balaoi in Pagudpud.  According to the driver,  Timmangtang Rock is the male rock and  our next stop the Bantay-abot Cave the female rock, thus collectively called the Lover’s Rock.

I like best the scenic surroundings of  Bantay Abot Cave, the small bridge, the waves, the blue sea, the wind blowing in my face and the grassy hills makes it an ideal place for some solitary moment.

Farther along the heart of Barangay Balaoi is what locals deemed to be the  2 sons of  Timmangtang Rock and Bantay Abot Cave, called the Dos Hermanos Island. This identical rock formations can be seen from the most beautiful beach in Ilocos Norte, the pristine Maira-Ira Beach also known as Blue Lagoon because of  it’s tempting blue waters.

Our last stop for the Pagudpud Tour is the hike to Kabigan Falls, it’s a mere 30 minute hike passing through streams and rivers and forest.  Trekkers need to  sign in a log book for security reasons, and pay an environmental fee of  Php 10,  and a local guide is required  (wearing  a green shirt with their name printed on it, it’s their uniform) and you can just give the guide a tip. (Php 100 is the minimum tip according to the driver).

The kind driver offered to bring me to Bangui Windmills for Php 100 saying it’s gonna be a long walk from the highway, ” gas lang po yung bayaran nyo Ma’am.” I declined because I was too confident I could tour it by myself only to find out I was dead wrong!  We bid goodbye  as I stepped into an ordinary bus to Laoag, only to ask the driver to drop me off  at Bangui Windmills. They  drop me off  at what they call the gateway to the Windmills where tricycle drivers are waiting for tourists.  The tricycle driver quoted me Php 150, haggled it down to Php 120 (roundtrip fare). Yeah I know, I would’ve accepted the offer of the driver in Pagudpud.  After all these years, I was able to visit the famed towering windmills standing grandly in the impressive coast of  Bangui. Despite the scorching heat of the sun it ‘s truly a sight to behold.

My next stop is the highlight of my tour — the Kapurpurawan Rock Formation.   My cousin who was assigned to work in Laoag 1st introduced me to Kapurpurawan. I saw its photo together with his photos in Australia, so I thought it’s also found there.  But he replied, “that’s in the Philippines in Ilocos Norte. ”  Now 3 years later, there I was walking alone to the rock formation, without any idea that it’s a long road ahead.  I’ll tell you the full story in my future posts, for the meantime, let me share you a glimpse of this majestic art of  nature.

The sun is about to set, only reminds me that I have to go back  home. I ended the tour at the  famous site  of  Cape Bojeador. Though some parts of  it have been ruined by the weather, undoubtedly, its strong character stood the test of time.  While sitting in its grand tower  with a breathtaking view of  Ilocos Norte’s coastline, I kept wondering why it took me this long to finally experience the splendor of  the magnetic North.

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*********************************************************************************************** About the Blogger : Gael is a Filipina solo adventurer, a dream chaser and a student of life.  Her (mis) adventures are documented in this blog. Follow her on Facebook and Twitter. For advertisement, partnerships and sponsorship, click here. or email me at thepinaysolobackpacker(at)yahoo(dot)com. **********************************************************************************************

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