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Dubbed as “The Queen City of the South”, the lovely Cebu City, the oldest city in the Philippines is bursting with rich cultural heritage through its old colonial buildings, archaic churches and interesting museums. To experience the old vibe of this lively city, head to the Old Cebu quarter in downtown Cebu and do a walking tour:
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San Sebastian Church, Quiapo, Manila – The capital of the Philippines – Manila, is often regarded as mundane. Most tourists would get cheap flights to Manila, and leave in a hurry to seek for beautiful white sand beaches that abounds in the Philippines’ 7,107 islands. Despite its blemished image, Manila has some of the most splendid historical buildings, forts and churches to flaunt that’s been forgotten by its visitors as well as its residents. Admittedly, I am guilty of taking Manila for granted that is why I’m starting to explore not just the metro but the greater Manila in the hope of showcasing its positive side. Every place I believe has a treasure, despite their negative reputation.
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Zamboanga city earned the moniker “Asia’s Latin City”; old colonial edifices that are great reminders of the Spanish colonial era are still well-preserved here and are great tourist attractions. In addition, the Chavacano language which has survived for over 400 years is widely spoken in this lively city. Chavacano is the only Spanish-based creole in Asia and one of the oldest creole languages in the world.
Fort Pilar in Zamboanga City
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April 2011 trip
Rugged and crowded, the local bus station situated somewhere in the heart of the not-so-known city in Perak is dominated by local passengers. I blend in, but not the two blondes sporting their 45L branded backpacks. I was too lazy to ask around so I figured why not follow them. I do that sometimes, especially in a touristy place. They’re headed to Langkawi.
I stopped.
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National Parks Development Committee (NPDC) in collaboration with the Department of Tourism will develop a “One Stop” Heritage Trail at the Relief Map of the Philippines found in Rizal Park (also known as Luneta Park in Manila, Philippines). The said attraction can be found along Taft Avenue in Manila.
The said project is meant to celebrate the upcoming 150th Birth Anniversary of Dr. Jose Rizal (the Philippine’s National Hero). It will serve as an overview of all heritage sites within the country. (more…)
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Sorsogon the land of Kasanggayahan, located at the southernmost part of Luzon in the Bicol region made its mark in the world map because of its whale sharks known locally as butanding. Donsol, a small town in the province of Sorsogon is the haven of these gentle giants. Sadly, tourists only know Sorsogon for its whale sharks when in fact my dear province has a lot more to offer. Let me give you a glimpse of the other towns of Sorsogon…
Subic Beach Matnog
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Angkor Wat is believed to be both a funerary temple for King Suryavarman IIand a temple to honor the Hindu deity Vishnu primarily because it is oriented to the west which symbolizes the death and the setting sun. The bas-reliefs, designed for viewing in an anti-clockwise direction which is practiced in Hindu funerary rites is said to support this purpose.
On my third day in Siem Reap, I couldn’t contain my excitement anymore, I know I have to visit the Angkor temples. While most tourists visit the temple at sunrise with their tuktuk and tour guide, I was still on a deep sleep.
At 7am, I went out and rented a blue bike for $1.5 and headed to the road leading to Angkor. Unfortunately, I noticed dark clouds started moving in the sky, and in a few minutes it drizzled. I went back. Blame it on the weather, my bed missed me that fast. So I took a nap and woke up at 12 noon. At that point, the intense heat of the sun is getting through my skin, but I can’t waste another day, I just wasted one, the day before. I biked in the heat of the sun and after a few meters reached the ticket booth, I bought a 3 day ticket for $40 but I just wasted half day of it on my bed.
And while it is suggested to tourist to leave Angkor Wat as their final stop I couldn’t hold my fervor! I planned to do the entire tour of the temples with a bike. Crazy! But it’s the cheapest way to tour the temples (other than walking and hitching a ride) and you can do it in your own pace without being bothered by anyone but the kid vendors. Biking towards Angkor Wat from Siem Reap will just take a few minutes. After passing by the bustling city of Siem Reap crowded with accommodations from posh & mid-range hotels to cheap guesthouses it felt like I was suddenly transported to a scenic and nostalgic town.
I was surrounded by huge trees and I mean really huge trees proudly standing on an orange ground! And as I slowly reached the dead end, I am to choose, whether I should turn right to Banteay Srey Temple or left to Angkor Wat on what seemed like a circular road leading to the great Angkor temples with the Angkor river on its backdrop. I chose left and stopped by the river. I love rivers, sitting on its bank is nostalgic and brings tears to my eyes.
No matter how much I want to stay at the river though I know I have to use the ticket. So I took my blue bike and started cycling towards the most famous and the largest and best preserved monument of the Angkor group, no other than Angkor Wat. As I was nearing the temple, I felt what everyone felt the very first time they behold this architectural masterpiece. Angkor Wat is sublime.
I parked near the river and gazed it from afar together with some locals, I was teary-eyed. I don’t know if it’s just the river that made me wept, or it’s because I am viewing the temple by the river with some locals and children that if it weren’t for my camera that’s attracting too much attention I would’ve easily blended with them. Or maybe it’s the disbelief that after all these years and after all I’ve been through to get to Cambodia, I am finally standing there. Perhaps it’s a mixture of it all. I tell you oftentimes I get too emotional during my travels, especially when a beautiful place strikes me and it is contradicted by the poverty in its surroundings. I see poor little children that has to work at a very young age, I just feel so useless, and that’s exactly what I felt in Cambodia.
I didn’t research well for my Cambodia tour so I have no idea what to see, except for the famed Ta Prom and Angkor Wat, since their photos are all over the world wide web . I didn’t rely on a book or a map, just following where the road would lead me this time. It is suggested though that you get a Khmer guide, to learn more about the temple’s history and the best place or spots to take photos, but if you’re a cheap skate then research before you go!
I guess my biggest mistake is not getting a map or researching about the temples first before I get there. But I guess because I am such a curious ass and I really spent time in each temple so I didn’t miss that much, not to mention that whenever there are tourists with guides, I listen to them. Poor me!
After my emotional encounter with Angkor Wat by the river banks, I headed to the crowded parking lot and kid vendors running from everywhere offering drinks, books, postcards and foods. I biked through the not-so-crowded part of the ground, one girl offered me Fanta which by the way is my official drink during my entire stay in Siem Reap! ”Buy Fanta from me and me, and my sisters will watch your bike, for $1 drink ,” said the vendor kid. I agreed and she lead me towards the area where there “moving store” is located.
What I like about the friendly vendors in Cambodia is their after sale service. They never fail to say thank you and convince you to come back. Well, of course, that’s my first encounter with Khmer kid vendors, and if you get to meet the same insistent kids in every temple, sooner or later you will get annoyed.
I crossed the dusty road and walked towards the west gate where a long busy causeway guarded by 2 lions in the midst of the moat leading to a sandstone covering the façade and full view of the central towers which then leads the main prang , the guards checked my pass and I heard they are really very strict when it comes to that. I set aside my emotions and started taking pictures. It is indeed vast! Before getting to the main temple, a lonely cross-shaped structure on the left side caught my attention, I learned later on that it’s the so-called library, there’s this same structure on the right side of the causeway.
I went down the stairs and took vanity photos inside the library. From there I saw what seemed like an artificial lake , a basin filled with water. I have seen impressive photos online taken from that location. I didn’t even realized until I got home and looked at the photos that from that site on the left basin, one can take a photo or view the 5 central domes as symbolized in the Cambodian flag.
I headed back to the causeway, it’s Cambodian New Year so just imagine the crowd, the main prang of the temple is under construction, so green nets covered it. Fail! At that point, I have three options; to follow the bas-relief to the left, move forward or proceed to the right.
The bas-relief on the right caught my attention so I viewed it counterclockwise. For me, the most amazing part of the temple aside from the view on the top of the temple is the bas-relief. The gallery at the West gate depicts the “ Battle of Kurukshetra ( a province in India)” which is the main subject of the epic Mahabharata.
On the south gate gallery, the main subject is the Army of King Suryavarman II, where the King himself is seen standing on an elephant surrounded by his servants and Vishnu is standing on a garuda (a supernatural eagle-like being that serves as Vishnu’s mount) and the Judgment by Yama (the supreme Judge) Heaven and Hell. It is said that this gallery is evidence that it was created after the King’s death.
On the East Gallery is a well-known episode in the Puranas, the Samudra manthan or Churning of the Ocean Milk which takes place during the second ascent of Vishnu (when he was incarnated as a turtle Kurma). The sole purpose of this is to give rise to Amrita (the elixir of life). If you’ve been to Suvarnabhumi Airport (Bangkok) you can also see it depicted there with Vishnu in the center.
Unfortunately the ”Churning of the Ocean Milk” walkway & the West gate is under construction, so tourists were instructed to walk down the stairs and proceed to the North gate which portrays the victory of Krsna over Bana, the Demon King and Battle between the Gods and Demons.
I didn’t follow it, and instead walked back to the courtyard and saw a steep stairways leading to the central towers where several tourists and even monks are lined up. At that point, I was prohibited to use a tripod and had to cover my back and sleeves with a bolero.
What I like about walking on the gallery of the upper dome is the view of its impressive surroundings of the countryside as well as the perfect balance and grandeur of Angkor Wat.
I walked back and headed towards the North Gallery and I was struck by a walkway surrounded by trees. It feels like walking in autumn but it’s eerie as I was the only one walking there. The path leads to another structure that is severely damaged but if you walk inside and exit it on the other side, you’ll be rewarded by a beautiful view of the river with cows relaxing on the river bank.
There’s another path leading towards I don’t really know where, but most likely to the countryside. At that point I have to stop. I walked back towards Angkor Wat and I realized how magnificent it is from that view.
I spent a couple of minutes sitting on the North Side of the temple and decided to grab a drink while waiting for the sun to set without realizing that the sunset can’t be viewed there! That’s what you get when you don’t have a compass or map or didn’t research about the place.
Vendors, souvenirs, foods etc. are bursting in this area. I ordered food which is a long wait by the way and a sugarcane shake. We use to eat sugarcane in the province when I was a kid, so I was curious how the shake taste.
Mind you once you sit and eat on every food stalls in each temple, you’ll be bugged by kids selling postcards, books, bags, etc. I bought a book about Angkor Wat for $1, it’s full of pictures only, not much to neither see nor read, and I regret not buying the bigger book for $5. I sat with the children & waited 3 hours till sunset, I was getting bored and it’s getting dark, yet of course, sunset is nowhere.
I whispered to the sky, as I walked back to the basin on the left to take a last keepsake of Angkor Wat. I will forever remember that unexplainable sensation I’ve felt when I first saw you.
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* The title was derived from the profound movie ”In the Mood for Love” by Kar Wai Wong. If you’ve seen its finale which was shot in Angkor Wat, it features the most beautiful yet saddest ending in a love story. Nothing, I just want to quote it. *wink
*I wouldn’t recommend biking the entire temples though, it is tiring and dangerous especially at night as the street gets really dark and the traffic gets heavy, I almost got into an accident twice because of biking at night. But if you are adventurous and a cheap skate like me, then rent a tuktuk on your 1st day to visit the far temples like Bantey Srey and you can bike Angkor Wat and the temples near it on your 2nd day, just don’t wait till it gets dark before you go back to Siem Reap.
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Aside from secluded white sand beaches, I am also a freak of ruins of old cities and historical places. Blame it on my background in anthropology (and amateur archaeology) I guess. And since all these years I have failed to practice my degree and I’m missing the field school a lot, I try to visit historical places, immerse in indigenous culture or simply practice the charm of the social scientist on my journeys.
The ruin of the old city of Ayutthaya was hailed a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1991, the Siamese kingdom that existed from 1351 to 1767 until it was invaded by the Burmese. This was once known to be one of the richest cities in Asia if not in the world.There are several travel agencies in Khaon San Road that offers package tours to Ayutthaya including Bang Pa-in, price starts at 300B, but you could save a few baht and explore more of the city if you commute. To get to Ayyuthaya from Bangkok on your own, there’s 2 options: bus or train. I took the 1st option.
I asked the metro cleaners on how to go to Northern Bus Terminal or Moh Chit and they only understood me when I mentioned Moh Chit. In Thailand,it is better to mention the Thai name of the place when you ask a local so they can understand you better. Luckily this time, I was not lost and reached the terminal around 30 minutes after.
I bought a ticket from one of the windows inside the building and the employee pointed me towards the waiting area fronting the buses. I had to wait for the next trip which was around 10am. I sat with some locals, and I was looking for some tourists, but found none. The bus finally arrived. I paid 60B for the ride, the bus was almost empty when we left but it is picking up passengers along the road so it is already full before we reached Ayutthaya.
On the window of the bus I saw a peak of one the stupa, but the bus didn’t stopped there and still moved farther. I was too shy to ask the locals on the bus that time. So I walked from the bus station to what seemed like a highway. I have no map with me so I have no idea where the temples are, all I know is it’s best to get around here with a bike.
I was looking for a tuktuk but surprisingly, there’s none around. I couldn’t decide whether I need to go left or right, as I’m not seeing any signs of old ruins. I then saw a store and ask the Thai owner. She could barely understand me because she doesn’t speak English that well she said so I showed her a picture of the old ruins on my Bangkok map. She directed me towards the right side and when her husband came out driving an expensive car, she verified the information she gave me. They both agreed I head towards the right side.
It was a short walk but it’s so hot as it’s already 12noon, and while approaching the major road –> U Thong Road, an old temple which seems to belong to Angkor Period was unveiled to me! I hurriedly crossed the street to get a closer look, searched for the entrance and paid 50B. I learned later on upon reading the signage that it is Wat Rachabunara. It was surreal.
I climbed the top of the major temple and the view below is equally amazing!There’s an exhibit inside the temple. A large amount of the golden artifacts and treasures found at Wat Ratchaburana are said to be displayed in the Chao Sam Phraya National Museum.
Walking around, I noticed that the site is full of headless Buddha images except for one that’s dressed and sitting proudly in the midst of the ruins.
I spent like an hour on that place alone, that’s how hooked I was! I’ll let the pictures here speak for you…
When the sun’s heat started to take its toll on me, I decided to cross the street and grab a cold drink and ice cream at a small cafe fronting Wat Rachabunara. Bikes for rent caught my eye and I suddenly remembered that there’s no better way to explore this charming ancient city than to bike around. I left my I.D and paid 50B.
I biked to the next temple which is pretty close–> Wat Mahathat. I had to leave my bike, and I don’t know how to. I forgot to lock it and good thing it wasn’t lost! I paid another 50B for entrance to Wat Mahathat (Temple of the Great Relics) which is the symbolic center where the Buddha’s relics were enshrined. It was also the residence of the Supreme Patriarch or leader of the Thai Buddhist monks. The temple is believed to be built during the 14th century A.D. (the early Ayutthaya period).
This site is also home to the famous Buddha head enclosed in the roots of a Bodhi tree.
There’s not much to see inside, they’re almost the same, headless Buddha images and stupas everywhere. I cycled around Wat Nok which is within the same block and has no entrance fee.
I passed by a little Thai spirit house under a tree by the river. These little houses are often charming miniature replica of a Thai-style house or temple. According to traditional Thai belief, the spirit house provides a home for the resident spirits of the compound. Wielding considerable power, resident spirits can play a major role in the fortune and destiny of the inhabitants of the compound. If the spirits are offended by inappropriate acts, neglect or disrespect, bad luck and misfortune befalls the owner and residents of the house. To appease and pacify the spirits, a daily offering of incense sticks, fresh flowers and food is presented.
Biking around an ancient park with rivers and trees everywhere is certainly, one of my most memorable post-birthday trips! Unfortunately, I had to leave, I didn’t get to see other equally important temples nor the King’s Summer Garden but one day I shall return. I wish I could’ve given justice to Ayutthaya, I should’ve spent more time or even stayed there overnight, I could’ve seen the light show of the temples at night.
I am thankful to my sister for suggesting that I visit Ayutthaya and there’s no cheaper way to get around the city than to go biking. Too bad I only get to explore it half day (and knowing me, I really take time to tour and savor each place I visit so I didn’t get to explore the whole city) and I had to get back to Bangkok to get my stuff at my guesthouse in Khao San Road and catch my flight at the Bangkok later that night. Had I known that I would miss my flight due to the heavy traffic because of the King’s birthday celebration at the Royal Avenue. I would’ve have stayed for the night at this charming old city.
How to get to Ayyuthaya:
Travel tips:
The temples with entry charges are usually in ruins, so there is no dress code, although visitors are still requested to refrain from blatant stupidity like clambering up the Buddha statues. Working temples tend to charge no fees and there are often no officials to check that a dress is appropriate (though it is advised to follow these customs to show respect for sacred places).
How to get to Ayutthaya:
By train
The cheapest and most scenic way of reaching Ayutthaya is by train. It regularly departs from Bangkok’s Hualamphong Train Station and stops in Ayutthaya. The trip takes about 2 – 2.5 hours depending on the type of service. Second class seats(A/C) cost 245 baht, third class is just 20 baht (!) (Reservations and seats are not guaranteed). (Fares in April 2010) Check time table here: (Please note that fares listed on the Thai railways site are out of date and incorrect) Also note that railway employees prefer not to sell 3rd class tickets to foreigners so if you’re on a budget; do insist with a smile.) And that some train stations (for instance Bang Khen) does not appear on the sites map, and that tickets may even be cheaper (12 baht from Bang Khen). If you have local friends, they may have some good advice.
The railway station is not on the island but across the river a short ferry ride away. Walk across the main road and down the small street straight ahead. Ferry boats run every few minutes and cost 4 baht.
By bus
Buses operate every 20 minutes or so from Bangkok’s Northern Bus Terminal (Moh Chit*) directly to Ayutthaya. First class air-con buses charge 50 baht. This trip is scheduled to be around an hour and a half, but allow at least two hours for the trip since the buses stop rather frequently and there are often jams on the roads out of/into Bangkok.
Also you can take a minivan from the Victory Monument direct to Ayutthaya. Takes ~1 hour and costs 60baht. Buses depart every 20 minutes or so
The buses are from 4:30AM–7.15PM. For more details, please call Tel. 0 2936 2852-66 or see the website [1] and Ayutthaya Bus Terminal, Tel. 0 3533 5304.
In Ayutthaya, the central BKS bus station is on the south side of Thanon Naresuan next to the Chao Phrom Market. Songthaews to Bang Pa-In also leave from here. Some 1st-class buses to Bangkok, however, leave from the north side of the road some 500m to the west, on the other side of the khlong (canal); the queue for air-con buses is easy to spot.
From Kanchanaburi, take a local bus from the main bus station to Suphanburi for 45 baht (2 hours), then another local bus to Ayutthaya for 40 baht (1.5 hours). A taxi from Kanchanaburi costs 2000-2500 baht (2 hours).
There is also a central bus station east of town serving northern destinations. It can be reached by songthaew – ask around to find the appropriate stop.
By minibus (van)
Convenient minibus service (can get stuck in traffic, but makes no stops like regular buses) operates from the Victory Monument square in Bangkok. Take BTS Sky train to the Victory Monument station, and go right on the elevated walkway – keep on it until you cross a large road, then descend – the buses are parked at the side of the main traffic circle). The cost is usually ~70 baht, takes around 1 hour or 1 hour 20 min. It’s quite convenient since you don’t have to go to bus terminals (nearby Mochit) but the only problem is that the minibuses don’t have much space to put big bags and have to wait until the car is fully filled.
Minibuses (van) from Kanchanaburi can be arranged by guesthouses or any tour operators for around 350 baht.
Biking around the ruins is the most enjoyable and fun way to spend the day. The archaeological park is easily reachable and manageable on bike even if you aren’t very fit. The paths are paved and the distances between temples are small. You can rent a bicycle for around 50 baht per day. (As of Dec 2009) The bicycles are not necessarily well maintained, so be sure that they work properly (Wheels are firm, seats adjusted to your height and well attached, handlebars don’t slip. Good shops will give you a free bike lock as well) Free map of the city is widely available in all hotels. The park opens at 7.30 AM. It is recommended that you begin your tour early, before the tour groups arrive from Bangkok. Take a big bottle of water with you.
Bicycle rentals: Soi 2 (where the majority of tourist hotels and restaurants are located) have numerous bike rental facilities. They are all next to each other so it will be easy to shop around and find the one with the best bike for you.
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