If this is not paradise..then it’s a place close to it, I murmured to myself  one early morning while I was sitting at the balcony of The Alternative facing El Nido beach and sipping a precious cup of instant coffee that cost me Php50 ( but it’s only Php5 at the sari-sari stores).

Thank God I didn’t order any other food or else it ruined my budget! But I  heard the fresh veggie foods at The Alternative are really mouth-watering! No wonder I’ve seen a couple of foreigners go there to dine. Yet for a poor traveler like me,  I try to stay away from temptations, don’t wanna end up with an empty wallet for the rest of my stay. I’m not suppose to be flashpacking, I should be backpacking.

Palawan’s unspoilt beauty is rated by the  National Geographic Traveler magazine as  the best island destination of East and Southeast Asia in 2007 (November-December 2007 issue).  El Nido, a marine reserve municipality is located North of  Palawan and one of he main contributors in making Palawan as one of the most sought-after tourist spot because of its sublime natural & unspoilt beauty.  And what makes El Nido truly exceptional is Bacuit Bay with its many beaches and lagoons of different sizes surrounded by towering limestone cliffs, lush forest, pristine white sands and serene turquoise-green waters. Alex Garland, the hip author of the book “The Beach” ( remember the movie starring Leonardo Di Caprio?) ,was said to have lived in El Nido for 6 months where he wrote the book. He mentioned in an interview  that the book was based on his experiences in living in the Philippines for 6 months and the book by the way is anti-traveler, a criticism of the backpacker culture not a celebration of  it.

El Nido, Palawan photo

It’s 8am, the boat and the bangkero is already waiting for me.   The boat owner introduced me to Kuya Art ( it’s a shame but until now I can’t spell & pronounce his full name! argh! ) the boatman (bangkero), who is a dive master and Kuya Reynante, his assistant.  I availed the Tour A package as advised by the boat owner.

Tour A Package:
* Small lagoon
* Big lagoon
* The Secret Lagoon
* Payong payong
* 7 Commando island

(Simizu island is supposedly part of the tour but we weren’t able to go there so the bangkero replaced it with The Secret Lagoon).

I don’t know why but I wasn’t really feeling well that day. I feel so dizzy and my  headache attacked me again so I didn’t get to enjoy site-seeing that much but I did love snorkeling!!!

The Small Lagoon

Our first stop is the Small Lagoon which is enclosed by towering limestone cliffs and 2 huge rocks at the entrance. You can’t really take a picture of the Small Lagoon if you don’t have an underwater camera  because you have to swim under the water to get through its small opening, unless you have a kayak.  I have done island hopping since but I haven’t tried snorkeling even once before so this is where I had my 1st snorkeling with the help of  Kuya Art.

Our next stop is The Secret Lagoon.

It’s a white beach enclosed by tall limestone cliff with 1 small kubo and you have to walk a few meters at the left end of  beach to get to the Secret Lagoon.

It’s called such because you can only get inside by passing through a small whole.

We ate our lunch here and I learned from the bangkeros that normally if it’s island hopping, they would bring raw seafoods and cook it in the beach.  That must be fun but too bad I had no idea!

Then the bangka docked in  Payong Payong Payong Island where I enjoyed snorkeling again. It’s a beach where you can view Miniloc nearby.

Payong Payong Beach, on the left is Miniloc Resort

There I met  a group of tourists, a 40-50 something business woman from Subic and her balikbayan sister  from the US with a friend. I met them because the van owner introduced himself, offering a free ride back to Puerto Princesa.  After a chit chat about Philippine travel especially about Zambales beaches. The group asked me to join them the next day for another set of island hopping trip for free.  Although it was a tempting offer, I politely refused, because  I had to go back because of an emergency in the family. How I wished I have met them before, then I could’ve have toured Bacuit Bay for free!

a dead tree @ the shore

free falling orange leaves

Payong Payong Beach

Next we head off to The Big Lagoon then to the magnificent 7 Commando beach.  My poor camera’s battery died on me on our last destination, so I didn’t get to photograph its astounding beauty. At first I was so worried because I thought it got broken when it hit the floor of the boat because of one huge wave.

The Big Lagoon

I hope I have given more justice to Bacuit bay but surprisingly my pictures  are so few and I honestly think I haven’t caught its real beauty, perhaps because it’s my 1st time to snorkel and I was quite busy enjoying the underworld! Needless to say, my headache disappears each time I’m under the water!Too bad though I don’t have any underwater camera.

El Nido,Palawan captured my heart, not just because of its exceptional beauty but because of its loving people.  It’s often compared to Phuket but what makes El Nido more charming is it’s unspoilt beauty.  It’s rare to see a community nowadays that are truly conscious about protecting their environment while at the same time promoting tourism in their charming town.  While I was taking a walk around the town, I noticed everytime  I meet a kid along the street, s/he would greet me with a smile saying “Welcome to El Nido! “  instead of asking for money.  Educating the young is one  step in maintaining a well-protected marine reserve like El Nido. As for me , I have felt something magical about El Nido that’ll  linger on.

Tip: If you’re solo you can arrange with your guesthouse/inn to find you a group that you can join for island hopping or talk directly with other tourist and travelers you meet in El Nido town or talk to a bangkero. Rate normally costs Php 500 each, that’ll save you more.

Pinaysolobackpacker would like to thank:

Kuya Art & Kuya Reynante

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El Nido, Palawan photo

Here’s a list of  El Nido accommodations  : Beach Resorts, Hotels, Guesthouse and Inn  in Palawan, Philippines.

Alternative Inn

Contact Info:+63917-8963406

Email: leeann@malapacao.com

The Alternative website

The Alternative has a total of 6 hand-crafted, uniquely constructed rooms featuring polished wood furniture and comfortable queen-sized beds. They provide towels, fans, a thermos with drinking water and mosquito nets for each room.
Wisdom – 1,200php
Large room with two queen-sized beds separated by a wooden divider, with private bath and unbeatable seaside views. Capacity: 4 people.
Healing – 900php
One queen-sized bed with private bath and unbeatable seaside views.
Capacity: 2 people.
rooms and rate
Faith & Light – 650php each
Each room is perched at the sea’s edge and contains an octagonal bed,terrace and semi-private bath.

Love & Strength – 500php each
Bright airy rooms on our upper level with a queen-sized bed each. Shared bath.

Sunset Lover’s Point
Contact Info:
0919066749434
No. of Rooms: 6

FOUR SEASONS INN
Bgy Masagana,  El Nido, Palawan
09194524266
Email Jhkim_18@yahoo.com

Chislyk Cottages
Contact Info:
09198799333
No. of Rooms: 3

HADEFE BEACH COTTAGES
Caalan Beach, Bgy. Masagana
El Nido, Palawan
Contact Info:
09209523280
Facilities & Services
No. of room: 5
Common T/B, paddle boat, hot water in thermos

EL NIDO VIEWDECK
Brgy Maligaya, El Nido, Palawan
Contact Info:
09166076577
Email Add:
elnidoviewdeck@yahoo.com
Facilities & Services
Air Con Room with Private CR, laundry, hot water in

RICO’S BEACH COTTAGES
Calle Hama, Bgy. Masagana
El Nido, Palawan
Contact Info:
09154023587
Facilities & Services
No. of Room :10
Private T/B, electric fan,
laundry, hot water in thermos tour arrangement,helper

LUALHATI COTTAGES
Rizal St., Bgy. Maligaya
El Nido, Palawan
Contact Info:
09193196683
Facilities & Services
Common T/B, electric fan, laundry service, tour arrangement, massage service

LALLY & ABET COTTAGES
Cor. Calle Hama, Bgy. Masagana
El Nido, Palawan
Contact Info:
487230498/ 09209056822
Email Add:
lale_abet@yahoo.com
Facilities and services:
No. of Room:43
Private T/B, air con
electric fan, shower, restaurant, bar, souvenir shop, sports facilities (badminton/volley ball), laundry, tour arrangement, foreign currency exchange, telephone, mailing service, shuttle service.
Note: Major credit cards are accepted

TANDIKAN BEACH RESORT
Calle Hama, Bgy. Masagana
El Nido, Palawan
Contact Info:
09203184882
No. of room: 6
Facilities & Services
Private T/B, electric fan,laundry, restaurant

MARINA GARDEN BEACH COTTAGES
Calle Hama, Bgy. Masagana
El Nido, Palawan
Contact Info:
0926-6840691
(48) 723-0876
Facilities & Services
Private T/B, electric fan,laundry, hot water in thermos helper, telephone,living room & balcony for each cottage, common T/B

GLORIA’S BEACH COTTAGES
Cale Hama, Bgy. Masagana
El Nido, Palawan
Contact Info:
0919 1677 870
Facilities & Services
Private T/B, electric fan,laundry, hot water in thermos

DARA FAYE COTTAGES
Calle Hama, Bgy. Masagana
El Nido, Palawan
Contact Info:
0919 3221 416
Facilities & Services
No. Of room: 4
Private T/B, electric fan, laundry, hot water in thermos

EL NIDO PLAZA INN COTTAGES
Cale Hama, Bgy. Masagana
El Nido, Palawan
Facilities & Services
Common T/B, electric fan, dining room/restaurant, Multipurpose hall, laundry
CASA BUENA VISTA
Rizal St. Bgy. Buena Suerte
El Nido, Palawan
Contact Info:
0916-3318560
Facilities & Services
No. of Rooms : 4
Private T/B, electric fan, hot
water in thermos, laundry, tricycle transport, common T/B

There are two mid-class resorts, Dolarog Beach Resort and Malapacao Island Retreat, and El Nido Resort has (5) star luxury resorts on Lagen & Miniloc Island.

EL NIDO MUNICIPAL TOURISM OFFICE is now collecting Eco-Tourism Development Fee ETDF. This Php200.00 contribution will go to the Local Government’s environmental Protection program and development of tourism sit

Tips:

●  Electricity runs 12:00PM – 4:00PM,6:00PM – 6:00AM.

●  Note: There are no banks or ATM in El Nido.Credit Cards are only accepted at El Nido Resorts, Dolarog Resort, El Nido Garden Beach   Resort, El Nido Boutique and Art Café and Lally and Abet Cottages. Palawan Pawnshop,M Lhuillier Pawnshop, El Nido Boutique and Art Café and Flora Uy Store exchange currency,however, it’s better to bring pesos. Traveler’s Cheques are accepted at El Nido Resorts, and Dolarog Resort.

●  El Nido Tourism Office is located at DENR building, Calle Real and is open 7 days a week,from 8:00AM to 8:00PM.

●  The Police Station is located at Hama St., in front of Marina Garden Beach Cottages.

●  Rural Health Unit, (Malaria Testing Center) is located at the Municipal Complex.

●  Farmacia Comprendio and Roxas Pharmacy have most non prescription drugs (daily 7:00AM -     9:00PM)

●  Globe and Smart cellular services are available in the area.

●  Broadband Internet is already available in the town area.

thank you to : El Nido Tourism

This is part of my EL NIDO  trip series. Click  here —> EL NIDO for more posts!

Go on Cheap Holidays In Cyprus and be sure to explore the amazing ruins and places of archaeological value. Did you know that according to legend, this is where the goddess of love, Aphrodite, appeared?

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By far, this is my saddest trip, personal reason I should say,so  I tagged along one of my cheap lil teddy named LOVE so I won’t feel so alone.  I’ve seen  some travelers tag their lil toy w/ them  (normally characters that loves to travel) whenever they travel and take their souvenir pictures on their destination.  I find it cool!

On the plane, I was assigned to sit beside a lady in her mid-30′s.

She’s raised in Palawan but now works in Coron. There’s no direct flight from Coron to Palawan so she had to take a connecting flight from Manila to Coron. No wonder she’s so exhausted.  She offered to accompany me until I find a place to stay in Puerto Princesa.

The plane landed in Puerto Princesa at around 8pm, it was already dark. The airport is quite small and  there are several fliers of hotels and travel packages before the exit gate.  I took them all, and browsed for the cheapest room, normal room rate starts at 1k! No way! That’s too expensive, if I stay for 4 days it’ll cost me a lot.

“Oh my nahanap ka na?”, she said. “Yes, Payuyu Pension House. ” Single room rate starts at Php 300. It so happened that her cousin was working there too, so we shared the tricycle, then she asked the driver to dropped me off at the guesthouse. I paid for 1 night only because I was still undecided wether I should stay in Puerto Princesa or head to El Nido.

I was starving so I decided to take a walk. A few meters away I found a small-ordinary looking restaurant but I wondered why it’s full of customers. So i went in. They’re selling this Vietnamese-inspired soup which I think is cheap but really soothe my taste bud. Then a chinese-looking guy in his 30′s asked to share a sit on my table, he’s waiting for his french bread order. He asked me if I was with someone because he saw 2 drinks on my table. I said no, one is for my take out. Then we we’re talking about all kinds of stuff about Palawan and how he hates abusive tricycle drivers , that the local government should also train it’s people especially drivers to be accommodating to visitors. I learned that he is a professor at Palawan State University. I don’t normally reveal to strangers that I am a solo traveler but I guess my instinct said  that he seems like an honest guy and he could give me more details about Palawan.  He’s in so much awe to find a girl in her mid-20′s having a solo trip in Palawan, or should I say skeptical. Then one of his friend, who is a manager at Chowking (still wearing a work uniform) arrived with a friend and called him Prof.  Right then I know, my instinct was right.

I can barely sleep that night my heart is shouting for El Nido. So the next day, I left the guesthouse!

The fare to San Jose terminal from Payuyu Pension cost me Php50.  There’s two choices at the terminal : van that costs Php 600 one way or non-airconditioned bus for Php 300.  Travel time is roughly 10 hours. I chose the latter. It’s the best way to immerse with the locals, although my friend Jayson warned me of free hard massage and face powder if I ride the bus. He was right of course,  but it’s alright, I love adventure, unfortunate events  has always been a part of my trips so I’m getting used to it.

After a few kilometers, something went wrong with the bus…So like the other passengers I got off the bus and started taking pictures around me. My trip back was even worse, we had to wait for another bus, luckily, 1 crowded bus passed by, I ended up standing  for half of duration of  the trip.

We we’re off the road again after a few minutes.  Travel time is roughly 10 hours passing by a series of mountains and rice fields and parts of the road (almost half of the route to El Nido) that still needs to be developed.

I wasn’t really bored because I enjoyed the probinsya feel of riding in a non-aircon bus to a secluded town plus the excitement of finally getting to one of my dream destinations in the country the cheapest way possible.

One boy from Taytay befriended me while I was eating at one of the bus stops.  He wanted me to go to his town instead.  Taytay is the old capital of Palawan, it’s  the town before El Nido. He frequented Puerto Princesa because just like any other remote town in the country, there’s not enough medical facilities in his town to cure his illness. Maybe next time.

I was quite worried as it’s late in the afternoon and I don’t know of any place to stay yet. What if El Nido doesn’t have any cheap guesthouse to offer?  I meant to do a Do-it-Yourself , El Nido on a budget trip. The web has series of  El Nido ads but mostly about those 5 star hotels in Miniloc and Lagen costing about Php13k per night (the cheapest rate) and undoubtedly I can’t afford that!

Welcome to El Nido! the sign says.  The buss entered a quaint street in a small baranggay enclosed by towering limestone cliffs.  The street is full of stores selling  apparels  and souvenirs, small  restaurants , internet shops & videoke bar.

A few women were sitting in the park, I asked them about any cheap hostels in the area and they directed me towards the beach.  After about a few left and right turn, I am almost at the dead end of the street leading to the beach, I turned left, I saw  a house which looks like a simple guesthouse but the place is being renovated when I entered it so I went to a humble place beside it –> The Alternative Bar & Inn .

The staff are very accommodating and offered me a room for Php 250 and after they showed me the room, upon seeing the great view of  El Nido beach, the overall aura of the guesthouse and my room’s name , I took it. The rooms are named not numbered, I stayed in a  room named FAITH.

The Alternative is a cheap accommodation yet it offers expensive vegetarian foods (php 250 up) ,an instant coffee alone cost Php50.  It’s located in front of  El Nido waterfront. But I so love this unique haven plus their good service, they treated me like any other guest even though I only stayed for 2 nights at the cheapest room ! The only downside in staying at a beach front inn is you can hear the waves at night which I don’t mind because the place is cool matched with good music!

The Alternative is also offering tour packages but they offered me Php 2,500 for Tour A & C.  But because I am kuripot, I shopped around. I remember to have passed by a kubo that offers island hopping tour,  just before I turned left to The Alternative.  Luckily, the woman who owns the bangka (outrigger boat) was there, they suggested I take tour A the next day for Php 1500, she gave me a discount for Php100.

That same day, I went walking around the town and bought food and drinks for my entire stay. I ate at one of the carinderia then I bought souvenirs.

Just so you know, electricity at El Nido runs only at 12:00PM – 4:00PM, 6:00PM – 6:00AM.  There are no banks in town so better bring Philippine peso/cash (see details at the bottom of this blog for establishments that accepts credit cards). And when going for an island hopping trip, you can bring raw sea foods that you and the bangkero can cook.

After my island hopping tour, I walked around the town to get the feel of  what it’s like to live in El Nido. One can’t help but notice the yellow banners that are scattered everywhere.

An environmental group raised alarm over the possible environmental degradation in El Nido due to a dredging project. The dredging project involves the deepening of the area surrounding the port to facilitate the docking of the RORO (Roll on, Roll off) inter-island ferry system. Such project endangers the natural habitat and heritage of the El Nido ecosystem which is considered to be one of the most beautiful in the world. (source: Philippine Daily Inquirer)

The government declared El Nido as a protected area to ensure long term protection and maintenance of biological diversity while providing at the same time a sustainable flow of natural products and services.  EL Nido Municipal Tourism office is now collecting Eco-Tourism Development Fee (ETDF) for  Php200.00 . The contribution will go to the Local Government’s environmental Protection program and development of tourism sites.

El Nido town is another quiet fishing village in the Philippines.  Because of it’s striking and magnificent surroundings, tourism has played a vital role in the livelihood of it’s people.

Karaoke bars, series of small restaurants serving local & foreign delicacies and guesthouses can be seen everywhere thus the sight of  foreigner wether solo or in groups is no longer new to the locals.

So far, El Nido is my ultimate destination in the country.  I fell in love with its natural beauty , tranquility and the warmth of it’s people. Even though it’s now a famous tourist spot in SE, it still kept as an unspoiled paradise by it’s people. I hope the local government will continue  to help save EL Nido from any environmental degradation for the long term benefit of  its people.

How to Get to El Nido, Palawan:

Manila – Puerto Princesa: Daily flights with Cebu Pacific, Seair, Air Philippines or ZestAir.  One way from P1400-4000

then take a bus or van from Puerto Princesa to El Nido estimated travel time is 9-10 hours

Cebu Pacific website click here

Air Philippines website click here

Zest air website click here

then from Puerto Princesa Palawan you can take the bus or van to El nido.

Puerto Princesa to El Nido:

Non-ac bus at San Jose treminal leaves at  530am, 7am and 9am. php 350

I recommend taking Sweety bus (if you plan on taking a bus), compared to other bus lines that I boarded, they have pretty good service.

Sweety Bus phone: +63(0)919711922.

Eulen Joy Bus phone: +63(0)9197162210

Air-con Shuttle Van: at Puerto Princessa’s new market bus station between 6 and 9 AM in the morning and 1 to 2PM in the afternoon.  Costs are 650 pesos per person and the trip takes 6-8 hours.

Private Van for Hire: arranged at Puerto Princesa

Prices are around P10,000 and can fit around 8-10 people

FERRY

MV Asunsion

IV (+63(0)2-4345-9596) has a boat sailing Wednesday evenings Manila-El Nido, (28 -30 hrs.) Cost Php 800.00.

MV Josille I

+63(0)2-243 88 45/0918 928 1299) sails from Manila via Coron Friday evening.

MV Catalyn C

Leaves Manila Saturday 8:00PM

Boat for Hire:

From Sabang to El Nido Every Monday and Thursday 6:30 AM (0918-5066123) Fare: Php 1,500.00 Sabang to El Nido, Php 1,200.00 Port Barton to El Nido.

The fastest and most direct way though to El Nido is from Manila.  The flight takes approximately one hour and thirty minutes and lands directly at El Nido airport, about 4km north of El Nido, on the coast.  You can catch local tricycles which go into town after scheduled arrivals, cost P150.  Flight reservations may be made through El Nido Resorts.

Islands Transvoyager Incorporated (ITI)

For reservations and inquiries:

E-mail: elnido@mailstation.net

Website: www.elnidoresorts.com

Contact No. (632) 894-5644 . Fax (632) 810-3620

Seair makes the trip from Manila thrice a week for Php 4,400 (one way), with a  stop over in Busuanga.  From El Nido to Puerto Princesa for only Php 1,700 vice- versa.

SOUTH EAST ASIAN AIRLINES

For reservations and inquiries:

E-mail: elnido@mailstation.net

Website: www.flyseair.com

El Nido Booking Office:

El Nido Boutique and Art Cafe

Contact No. : 0918 50 66 123 or 09204469135

Website: www.geocities.com/elnidoboutiqueandartcafe

Pinay solo backpacker stayed at :

Alternative Inn

Contact Info:

+63917-8963408

Malta was under British rule until 1964, so the British influence is still strong. malta holidays also introduce visitors to their fascinating heritage, including some of the oldest prehistoric stone structures in the world.

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