Apart from the great seductress  Anawangin Cove and the famed jewel of blue and green caldera of  Mt.Pinatubo, on the other side of the massif, there lies Lake Mapanuepe — another outcome of  Mt. Pinatubo’s madness that is unknown to many tourists.

Armed with overwhelming feeling of excitement and curiosity, I boarded the top of a jeep with 2 friends :  Dong and Chyng to Anglao town from San Marcelino, Zambales (Philippines).   The sun has begun to poke it’s nose further out into the sky unveiling a wide expanse of   a deserted agricultural landscape covered with  ashes  creating an illusion of  snow-covered  land when viewed from afar.

As the jeep paved the way  to the bumpy road that  seems to disappear into a postcard perfect field flanked by towering hills, one of the locals asked us where are we going to stay for the night as there’s no more jeep that’s going back to town because it’s a Sunday. For a moment, that thought worried  us, but  there’s gotta be a way – we would either hitch a ride or walk back .

As the jeep ascended  into a winding road, we were welcomed by shouts and laughter of  the Aetas  ( indigenous people thought to be the earliest inhabitants of the Philippines) now living in shacks beside the road.  After the destructive eruption of  Mt.Pinatubo, some of them fled to safer grounds and rebuilt their communities.  The jeep continued to pave the way to our destination, the sleepy village of Aglao – the jump off point to Lake Mapanuepe.

With Mt. Pinatubo’s eruption in 1991, lahars (volcanic mudflows) descending along volcano channels to Marella River, blocked it’s tributary Mapanuepe River and generated natural lakes.  The Mapanuepe River overflowed to the village of Anglao and Bajaoen covering their  houses, and livelihoods thus, the name Lake Mapanuepe was born (adopted from the name of the river itself).  To prevent catastrophic draining of the lake, a trench was excavated at the bedrock to stabilized it.

As soon as we got off the jeep, we walked hurriedly towards the serene lake.  If you know nothing about it’s dramatic past, it may  appear as if it’s like any other ordinary lakes until you come across the only remnant of  its past -the sunken church of  Bajaoen.

We hired a small outrigger boat from a fisherman to take us to the maroon steel cross that’s protruding out of the water.   Some trunks of  sunken trees are also seen sticking out  as we sail through the lake.  The  water passage broadened into a wider lake revealing  a massif  that provides dramatic backdrop for the lake and the cross, though some parts due to mining  are eyesores.

As the boatman sailed closer to our destination,  the most poignant image of the catastrophe springing to life  emerged before us.  And  all of  sudden it felt as if it enveloped us in silence.

A raw and strengthening wind is funneling  down the highlands straight to our faces.  The unclear waters can be seen in the spaces between the steps of  the cross.  I was too scared to walk, not because I can’t swim but because I was scared to fall into the unknown.  I love adventure, curiosity keeps me alive but at that moment as if  the lake whispered to me to be at peace and pay respect.

Everything has to come to an end eventually, even the most destructive catastrophes…that is the cycle of  life.  For the residents of Aglao,  they’ve learned to adopt to such madness and uncertainties.   They rebuilt their homes and their livelihood  at the banks of  the lake.

We we’re already starving  so we bought some canned goods from the nearest store by the lake.  The store owner offered to cook the food for us and invited us to their humble house for lunch.  She confirmed that there’s no more jeep to take us back to town as it is a Sunday so we decided to look for the village chieftain to inquire about our next option.  We  we’re amazed to find him doing manual labor for the baranggay hall to save money for the village.  We we’re lucky because the workers will return home that afternoon so we hitched a ride on their small jeep.

Chyng and Dong Ho playing Bingo with the locals

Over the years Korean investors started  invading the tranquil village, in fact, most of the men of Aglao now works for the mining companies, reason why the workers of the baranggay hall all came from the neighboring town.  I’m against mining, but as our host narrates, ” It’s the only job of the young men here.”

I have always  been intrigued by the unscrupulous significance of the volcanoes  in the lives of the villagers like why the locals continue to live in terror and uncertainty beside active volcanoes that  destroyed many lives.  For some villages and tribes, it’s the century old religious beliefs and respect for the volcanoes that  makes them stay,  but for the people of  Aglao … this  is their only home.

Here the cross  is not seen as a Roman torture device and more than just a symbol for Christianity, it is a monumental reminder of  a tragic past and a symbol of  a lost village springing  back to life.

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Who would’ve thought that after all the the sufferings, the tears, and the broken lives (as well as properties), something  truly remarkable will emerge out of it. Indeed, it is possible.  That’s why I  am positive that with Japan’s suffering today… something of  unexpected beauty will happen in the near future.  Like everyone else, I pray sincerely for Japan’s immediate recovery.

It was June of 2010 we were looking for good holiday deals, so I  finally decided to push though with our plan of  trekking Mt. Pinatubo to the crater lake.  According to my map, mount Pinatubo is located in Zambales, Philippines, but  the gateway for the trek is in Capas, Tarlac.  It is suggested that you visit in a group (5 pax per jeep) so you can share the cost of the trek.  The local tourism has organized the trek and permits so you have to register and pay for the environmental fee , the guide (required) and the 4×4 jeep.  The best time to do the trek is from February – May, during the dry season, it can be a bit risky to go trekking during the rainy season.

4x4 jeep in Mount Pinatubo photo

Along with my sister and my friends, we rode on a reliable 4×4 jeep to mount pinatubo crater lake.  We actually opted for the rugged-looking jeep for that “adventure feel”, but the president of the 4 wheelers association insisted on the red posh jeep with doors and windows that are closed, at the end of the day it was a good choice because it rained heavily on our way back.

The jeep swayed past a wide expanse of desert-like sands with lava rocks, canyons, hanging valley, an Aeta village, some uphill rocky drive, a photo op before you reach the base with Mt.Pinatubo as the backdrop and  finally parking  with the rest of the 4×4′s at the jump off  base  of the trek  where one can find in amusement the formation of towering pinnacles of  lahar and boulders of rocks.

Our guide then lead the way to a  30 minute trek, a trail that passes through a series of  streams, motley of rocks and gorges, surrounded by sparse vegetation and hanging valleys before finally arriving at base camp where the viewing deck is located.

The base camp has been developed  for treekking, notice the Korean signs (or is that Singaporean?), the huts and toilets. I was informed that the local government worked with a foreign company to develop Mt.Pinatubo. Must be the reason why my good friend and dormmate, the online editor of  Businessworld, wrote after her visit:

“Staying longer might also give the visitor more time to be bothered by some of the thoughts encountered while making the trek. One would be tempted to look into the lake and into the mountains for answers on why the poor tourist guide gets only half of  what is actually paid for the service at the tourism center, why some signs are in Korean and why the tourism rates are ridiculously higher for foreign tourists.”

I think  it’s a sad reality almost everywhere, most of the time, it’s directly proportional  to the rise of tourism and commercialization.

We decided to have lunch first before we go boating.  We didn’t want to pay extra for an expensive meal with the package so we brought our own packed lunch. Our poor guide together with the other guides doesn’t even their own food, so we shared ours. So please, if you happen to visit Pinatubo, if it’s not too much of a hassle, bring extra food for your guide and better give them even a small tip. You only get to visit Pinatubo once, or maybe twice, so better spread some kindness.

My anthropologist classmate Risa was also there in mount Pinatubo, too bad my brother accidentally deleted the raw photos so these are the only memories left of the trek. We paid a hefty Php300 (USD6) each to the boatman to take us to the other end of the crater We took a dip into the crater water, some parts are extremely hot  though.
It was June, so almost rainy season, the sun is nowhere so we didnt get to see the carter in it’s wide jewel of blue and green, only green.  Still, it was a magical view to behold,  green waters  with a backdrop of  towering pinnacles of  lahar  and undoubtedly, one of the best in the country but I agree with my friend, since there’s no other attraction there just like other tourist site, staying longer might have made the place banal.

Special thanks to: Marco, Joren, Spencer Ivan and my sister Bluv.

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Zambales is well-known for its beaches, especially Subic,but not most Pinoy probably know Pundaquit. It is a small  fishing village facing the South China Sea in San Antonio, Zambales. Pundaquit is a famous jump off point to Camara Island, Capones Island, Anawangin Cove and Nagsasa Cove.

How to Get to Anawangin Cove, Capones Island and Camara Island:

By Land:

Manila to Zambales:

take a Victory Liner bus bound to Iba, Zambales in Kalookan. You can also take a bus off to Olongapo in Pasay or Cubao,then you can take a bus bound to Iba, Zambales in Olongapo. Aske the driver to drop you off to San Antonio town.  From there, you can take a tricycle (Php 50 if your solo or Php 25 per person) to Pundaquit. Travel time is about 4-5 hours depending on traffic. Fare is more or less Php250.

Victory Liner website : http://www.victoryliner.com/

From Pundaquit to Capones Island, Anawangin  Coveand Camara Island:

The island  is  accessible by a  15-20 minute boat ride from Pundaquit, San Antonio, Zambales . For Anawangin, another route is by a 4-6 hour trek through open trails thru the Pundaquit mountain range where you can also hire a guide at the jump off point.

Boat for Island hopping:

You may try contact Ate Fe @ 09176601068 or 09176675374 .

Php 1,500 for the small boat which can accommodate 6 people and Php300 each person for a larger boat which can accommodate 20 people.

Pundakit/Pundaquit Accomodations:

If you’re not planning to camp in any of the islands, Ate Fe and his family also owns cheap rooms for rent in Pundaquit. Kindly contact her for the rates.

Hotels/Inns in Pundakit/Pundaquit:

* Wildrose Beach Inn- contact#: 0910 661 5613 — JR or Engr. Doria

website: http://wildrosebeachinn.com/

*MEGAN’S BEACH RESORT: Tel. No.: (0063) 47-6030232/ 47-6030233

Cell#:: (0063) 9194808520/ 9217936797

email: virgieh@mail.com

Website: http://www.megansresort.net/

*NORA’S BEACH RESORT: contact#: 0918 278 8188 or 0919 637 4917

website:http://norasbeachresort.zambalesphilippines.com/

PUNDAQUIT LUXURY RESORT: contact#: + 63 917 512 2307 or + 63 919 354 7999

website: http://www.pundaquitluxuryresort.com/

*Punta de Uian (luxury resort)

contact #:0918-808-8426 or 0918-800-8426 Mr.Gio Aquino
Email: gda.puntadeuian@gmail.com

website: http://www.puntadeuian.net/

BEACH ACTIVITIES:
—>Island hopping: Capones Island, Camara Island, Anawangin cove (rate is normally Php1500(roughly US$34) for a small boat that can accommodate 6 people whereas for large boats (max 20 persons) rate is normally at Php 300 (roughly US $7) per pax  or Php 2,500 (roughly US$56) (rates may vary depending on the boatman and boat you hire). Nagsasa Cove is 1 hour from Brgy. Pundaquit (the jump off point), so this is normally a separate activity which will cost you another boat fare for Php 1,500 (roughly US $34).
—->Trekking Mt. Pundaquit – another route to Anawangin, for the adventurous souls this is recommended, may take 4-6 hours
—-> Trekking the lighthouse in Capones

—->Swimming – take note of the warnings for the sudden deep spots in Anawangin, while in Capones, the waves can be a bit huge sometimes.

—->Skimboarding- most locals find the beach ideal for skim boarding even the beach at the jump off point in Brgy.Pundaquit
—->Surfing- no equipments for rent so bring your own but Crystal beach a neighboring beach has surf equipments for rent, but the beach is not really the ideal surfing spot as the waves are flat and the current is strong.

—->Diving- (for Capones and Camara) but you may be disappointed because most corals are dead due to dynamite fishing.
—->Photography – the ruggedness of the terrains, the breathtaking sunset and sunrise and the starry sky at night makes it ideal for photography enthusiasts.

Travel tips:

* There’s no electricity, no mobile network signal nor hotels in Anawangin, your only option is to camp  if you intend to stay overnight so bring camping gears and tent  and drinks and food.

*Always wear your life vest while you are at the sea , the waters to the islands  can be rough sometimes. I recommend that you arrive early in Pundaquit while the water is still calm.

* Pasay and Kalookan Victory Liner  serves buses to Iba, Zambales  (none in Cubao). Last trip is at 11pm, arrive early so you can reserve seats as it gets fully loaded especially on weekends. The last trip is the best time to get to Pundaquit if you don’t intend to stay there overnight, you may just drop off at Olongapo and stay in a convenience stor or 24hour fastfood chain till around 5pm before you head to Pundaquit.  There are several buses bound to Iba, Zambales in Olongapo, mostly non-airconditioned buses, just ask the driver to drop you off in San Antonio, Zambales.

*If you plan to stay longer  in the island, bring extra water and food with you and remember to put on your sunscreen.

* Never leave your trash behind. Plastic bags or wrappers that flow out to the sea are mistakenly eaten by marine life.

Save our shores! THEpinaysolobackpacker supports responsible and sustainable tourism.

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We were already on a bus to Pundaquit from Subic when I texted the boatman, and his reply was, ” The waves are huge, we couldn’t risk the boat and your safety.” “Bummer! It can’t be, we’re almost there !” , so I persuaded the boatman, since he is scheduled to pick up a family at Capones Island that that camped there.  He agreed, but we are to settle in the equally enchanting Capones Island  only, no island hopping. Although the exquisite rock formations and the rugged coastline of  this island is more than enough to call my attention, my main intent is to hike the sturdy yet lonesome lighthouse standing somewhere on the highest peak of  Capones.  It’s just one of the many lighthouses scattered everywhere in my dear Philippines which is featured in the monumental opus of Maximo Lopez del Castillo Noche’s  “The Lonely Sentinels of the Sea “ which I used to browse in National bookstore since I can’t afford it’s hefty price!

The South China Sea waves were mountainous. Our small boat would plunge down on the back of the wave, hit the bottom and would bury it’s bow into the upcoming wave.  The waves were splashing against us, filling the air with spray. We we’re sweating like pigs, grasping tightly to the side of the boat’s body and praying so hard every time the huge waves bashed our small boat as if it is about to swallow us in a few seconds.  That was a mere 20 minute boat ride, but it felt like eternity! Thankfully, we arrived safely but the boat almost capsized when  they picked up the family who carried with them rocks and sands from the island (ayan kase, take nothing but pictures!)

After throwing our bags to the  ground,we strolled around the island which is all ours! We climbed the hill with a spectacular view of the rough sea.  Capones  Island is endowed with stunning rock formations & picturesque topography.

Unfortunately, it’s not safe to swim there that time, like I mentioned, the waves are real mad and the current is so strong since the beach is facing the South China Sea.  So we just swam close to the shoreline since we’re not talented swimmers.

Although we’re raised in a town near the sea, until now we can’t swim!  Well, that’s an exaggeration, of course, we can swim, around 3-4 strokes maybe!?  Shame!

Since we don’t have the power to  tame the wild waves, we succumbed and transferred to the other side of the island,we walked through tall grasses that  dwarfed us. Unfortunately,  we found ourselves standing on a  filthy grayish-black sand,  shoreline full of dead corals and pebbles and underwater sand that is coarse to the feet.

After a few minutes  of solace, we decided to go back.

I explored the island on my own while my sisters were busy swimming.  Upon climbing the cliff, I was welcomed by rubbish! Tons of slippers stucked in-between the rocky part of the hill. I continued climbing, holding tightly to the rough dark-toned edges of  what seemed like slices of lava formed from the eruptions of  volcano some zillion years ago. On it’s top, I was rewarded by a full view of the vast sea and it’s untamed waves bashing against the rocks and the coastline of the island.

The rugged terrain and the abandoned lone structure somewhat contributed to the beautiful  strangeness of  Capones Island.  If it weren’t for the tall grasses that dominated me and kept me paranoid ( I was scared of snakes that might be hiding there somewhere) and the eerie silence, I would’ve continued the search for the lighthouse.  Despite it’s rise to fame, Capones  still poses an image of  an isolated enclave frozen in time, with no facilities to speak of, thereby making it possible to enjoy its rugged charm in solace unlike her sister Anawangin Cove which is overrun by campers. 

Capones Island is undoubtedly enchanting.  I like it’s  stunning rock formations, irregular landscape, dramatic coastline and the calmness  of  it’s surroundings contradicting the untamed waves.  But what I like best about Capones Island is…  there’s a sense of adventure and new discovery around every bend.

After basking in the sun for the past 6 hours, the boat finally arrived to pick us up.  We prepared ourselves with another  encounter with the turbulent waters of  the South China Sea.

March 2009 trip

Big thanks to my sisters Bluv, Cherbeth and his boyfriend Gary forthe happy memories!

And to Ate Fe and his husband, our boatman. Thank you!

THEpinaysolobackpacker supports  responsible and sustainable tourism. Save our Shores!

For Capones Travel Guide—> click HERE

  Copyright secured by Digiprove © 2010 Gael Hilotin

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It used to be a hideaway for mountaineers but now, Anawangin is one of the famous beaches in Luzon, but beyond it’s charm, is a great danger. Sadly, some parts of the beach that suddenly drops has claim lives yearly and trekking in the mountain rages to Pundaquit  during rainy or stormy season has caused unfortunate accidents leaving a tragic memory to it’s victims and their friends & family.  Despite the perils and warnings I’ve read online about it’s deep spots that constantly changes not to mention the garbage and crowd, I am still drawn by it’s mystery and beauty.

Anawangin cove  is our last stop during an  island hopping in Pundaquit.  The boatman slowly maneuvered the outrigger boat away from Capones and Camara Island, the waters leading to the cove is rough.  As we move towards the beach,  we were surrounded by yellowish and greenish rolling hills and pine trees  (agoho trees actually) that’s lined-up on it’s  grayish-white sand clear bluegreen waters!  The sands of  Anawangin are mostly volcanic ash from the eruption of Mt. Pinatubo which is also responsible for the pine trees  that surrounds it (the ash falls brought the agoho seeds).  The eruption basically gave the cove a make-over, reason why some parts of the beach also drops suddenly because the ashes beneath the waters are being moved by the strong current.

We gathered our things and looked for an open hut where we can stay at.  Several huts has been built now on the shoreline and on the left forested side of the cove.  The owners is now collecting  Php 5o entrance fee for for people who wants to stay and make use of their manual freshwater pump (poso or artesian well)  that’s aside from  fee for the small huts (depends wether your staying overnight or just for the day).  I can’t help but wonder how it looks like when it was still a secret hideaway, probably much better.

One of the attractions in Anawangin is the clear  swamp surrounded by pine trees and against it is a backdrop of  rolling yellowish green hills. 

We started taking photos while we left Maricel swimming alone in the beach. There are lifeguards standing by the shore and there’s a huge signage now on the dangerous part of the beach so I guess it’s safer now.  But I see most tourists are heading towards the far right side of the beach, where it’s safer to swim.

After exploring the swampy side of Anawangin, we decided to eat.  Apart from small sari-sari stores , there’s no restaurant or even carinderia that serves rice meals there. Because my friends are busy corporate slaves, none of us had the time to cook  so we just enjoyed the snacks, the canned goods and ready-to-eat meal we bought from a  convenience store in  Olongapo earlier that day.

take this warning seriously!

My sister joined Maricel on the beach, while me, Joren and Merl trekked the must-see hill on the right side before we  swam its clear waters. I know I can’t leave Anawangin without seeing her from that hill.

And there I thanked my God and Anawangin for the fine weather and a good memory of  her.

the other side of the cove

Some say,  Anawangin is indeed captivating, yet it is taking lives because her visitors have abused her, just look at the garbage on the campsites left by irresponsible  campers.  We go there to camp and enjoy her mystic beauty, let’s  have the decency to take our trashes with us, leave nothing but memories!

Hey, I know you paid Php50 for the entrance fee, but that doesn't give you the right to abuse her!

Let’s Save our Shores!

Thepinaysolobackpacker supports responsible and sustainable tourism.

Big thanks to Maricel, Joren, Merl and Bluv for joining me in this get-away!

Merl, Maricel, Joren & my sis Bluv

For Anawangin Travel Guide—> click  HERE

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Zambales is well-known for its beaches, especially Subic,but not most Pinoy probably know Pundaquit. It is a small  fishing village facing the South China Sea in San Antonio, Zambales.

boats used for island hopping by day and for fishing at night

Pundaquit is a famous jump off point to Camara Island, Capones Island, Anawangin Cove and Nagsasa Cove.  Several beach activities are evident here: surfing, swimming, snorkeling, scuba diving, island hopping and camping.  So tourism, aside from fishing is one of the livelihoods of the locals here.

I’ve always wanted to visit this village since I saw the pix of my childhood neighbor in this town October 2008, with the primary intent of exploring the 3 unspoilt islands but since my sister wasn’t able to join me for the Nth time. I braved the town alone.

Pundaquit beach

Unfortunately, there’s no bus bound to Iba, Zambales at Victory Liner in Cubao.  So I boarded the bus off to Olongapo.  The trip took 4-5 hours. Then at Olongapo terminal, I took an ordinary bus to Iba, Zambales and asked the driver to drop me off at San Antonio.

San Antonio town hall

I walked a few meters from the town hall passing  by a small store and I decided to buy snacks and soft drinks as they said, Coke is pretty expensive there. Took a tricycle to Pundaquit for  Php 50 since I am alone.  Not knowing where to stay, I told the driver to just bring me there,after a few minutes, I am almost at the end of the road.

the bridgethat leads to Pundaquit

People in this village   speak Tagalog so you won’t have a hard time asking for directions, and once you’re there, you really won’t get lost because it’s just a small community.  When I saw Pundaquit Elementary School, I know I was there.  Besides, the end of the road leads to a small lake  that will also lead you to the beach.

Even though Pundaquit is facing the open ocean of the China Sea, it is sheltered by the hills, mountains and its neighboring islands. But the waters of  this village  and its neighboring town has strong current because it leads to the ocean.

pines trees thrive along the beach of Pundaquit

I was lucky to take the photos at noon during the heat of the sun which highlighted the green and blue waters , the gray sand and the blue skies but at the end of the day, the color of the water turns dull.

I looked first for a place to stay, but all the inns are fully booked.  So I walked along the beach and found small cottages lined up that costs Php 50.

I wanted to rest my back, so I asked a woman named Ate Fe, who owns one of the stores along the beach.  She showed me a humble hut w/ a  foam inside.  Rate is Php 200 (good for 2 persons) for overnight stay, though I wasn’t staying , I wanted to rest so bad that I took it.

She happens to be a wife of a fishing man  who also owns a boat. The rate is Php 800 for 1 island and Php 1500  fo 3 islands.  But they have to make sure first that the weather is good and the  current and the waves are safe for island hopping.  The safest is Capones Island, while  Anawangin, the most famous and most charming island in Pundaquit has the strongest current.  But you can also trek Anawangin, takes roughly 4-5 hours though but the view is impressive.

the mountains that you need to trek to Anawangin

I ate the snacks I bought in San Antonio, I was  starving because there’s no restaurant or even carinderia that sells lunch in Pundaquit. So better be prepared with packed lunch or take out foods at the food chains in Olongapo or carinderias in San Antonio before heading to Pundaquit, and there’s no water either.  There are stores that sells snacks and softdrinks but the latter is pretty expensive.

Pundaquit is blessed with fine beaches and majestic surroundings but like I’ve said , one has to be extra careful as the current is strong because it leads to South China Sea.  It’s a good camping base for the adventurous but I wouldn’t recommend it especially island hopping to the nearby islands to a family getaway especially if you have children.  I have heard and read several stories about deaths in Pundaquit, particularly Anawangin but if you ask around or ask the bangkero, they wouldn’t confirm it,  which I do understand because tourism plays an important part in their lives.

I left at 4pm the same day,  meet 3 young campers who just got down from Anawangin while I  was hoping to see the neighboring islands pretty soon!

***For Pundaquit Travel Guide —> click HERE

THEpinaysolobackpacker supports responsible and sustainable tourism.

Copyright secured by Digiprove © 2010 Gael Hilotin

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