The border crossing in Aranyaprathet is the most famous border when crossing from Thailand to Cambodia, so it is relatively safe and easy. One caution though, avoid the VISA Scam.
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Bangkok is in chaos, it’s all over the news and I am clueless because I haven’t watched the TV for about 2 months! I can’t cancel my flight, I’ve been waiting for this trip since January, besides, it’s a big hassle since I paid cash for the expensive airfare since there’s no promo on my flight dates. While most tourists would spend 2-3 days in Siem Reap, I opted to stay for 1 week.
The plane touched down at 12 am at BKK airport, again, I wasn’t able to register on roaming, so my phone is plain useless. Like before I slept at the airport until sunrise. I was so pre-occupied during the past few months that I failed to plan my Cambodia trip, I didn’t even change my peso to US dollars before leaving the Philippines which was a BIG mistake. Left me no choice but change my peso to US dollars at BKK airport, but the employee at the money exchange refuse saying, it’s not good for me, Php100 is converted to US$1! Oh, well, I had no other choice.
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Aside from secluded white sand beaches, I am also a freak of ruins of old cities and historical places. Blame it on my background in anthropology (and amateur archaeology) I guess. And since all these years I have failed to practice my degree and I’m missing the field school a lot, I try to visit historical places, immerse in indigenous culture or simply practice the charm of the social scientist on my journeys.
The ruin of the old city of Ayutthaya was hailed a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1991, the Siamese kingdom that existed from 1351 to 1767 until it was invaded by the Burmese. This was once known to be one of the richest cities in Asia if not in the world.There are several travel agencies in Khaon San Road that offers package tours to Ayutthaya including Bang Pa-in, price starts at 300B, but you could save a few baht and explore more of the city if you commute. To get to Ayyuthaya from Bangkok on your own, there’s 2 options: bus or train. I took the 1st option.
I asked the metro cleaners on how to go to Northern Bus Terminal or Moh Chit and they only understood me when I mentioned Moh Chit. In Thailand,it is better to mention the Thai name of the place when you ask a local so they can understand you better. Luckily this time, I was not lost and reached the terminal around 30 minutes after.
I bought a ticket from one of the windows inside the building and the employee pointed me towards the waiting area fronting the buses. I had to wait for the next trip which was around 10am. I sat with some locals, and I was looking for some tourists, but found none. The bus finally arrived. I paid 60B for the ride, the bus was almost empty when we left but it is picking up passengers along the road so it is already full before we reached Ayutthaya.
On the window of the bus I saw a peak of one the stupa, but the bus didn’t stopped there and still moved farther. I was too shy to ask the locals on the bus that time. So I walked from the bus station to what seemed like a highway. I have no map with me so I have no idea where the temples are, all I know is it’s best to get around here with a bike.
I was looking for a tuktuk but surprisingly, there’s none around. I couldn’t decide whether I need to go left or right, as I’m not seeing any signs of old ruins. I then saw a store and ask the Thai owner. She could barely understand me because she doesn’t speak English that well she said so I showed her a picture of the old ruins on my Bangkok map. She directed me towards the right side and when her husband came out driving an expensive car, she verified the information she gave me. They both agreed I head towards the right side.
It was a short walk but it’s so hot as it’s already 12noon, and while approaching the major road –> U Thong Road, an old temple which seems to belong to Angkor Period was unveiled to me! I hurriedly crossed the street to get a closer look, searched for the entrance and paid 50B. I learned later on upon reading the signage that it is Wat Rachabunara. It was surreal.
I climbed the top of the major temple and the view below is equally amazing!There’s an exhibit inside the temple. A large amount of the golden artifacts and treasures found at Wat Ratchaburana are said to be displayed in the Chao Sam Phraya National Museum.
Walking around, I noticed that the site is full of headless Buddha images except for one that’s dressed and sitting proudly in the midst of the ruins.
I spent like an hour on that place alone, that’s how hooked I was! I’ll let the pictures here speak for you…
When the sun’s heat started to take its toll on me, I decided to cross the street and grab a cold drink and ice cream at a small cafe fronting Wat Rachabunara. Bikes for rent caught my eye and I suddenly remembered that there’s no better way to explore this charming ancient city than to bike around. I left my I.D and paid 50B.
I biked to the next temple which is pretty close–> Wat Mahathat. I had to leave my bike, and I don’t know how to. I forgot to lock it and good thing it wasn’t lost! I paid another 50B for entrance to Wat Mahathat (Temple of the Great Relics) which is the symbolic center where the Buddha’s relics were enshrined. It was also the residence of the Supreme Patriarch or leader of the Thai Buddhist monks. The temple is believed to be built during the 14th century A.D. (the early Ayutthaya period).
This site is also home to the famous Buddha head enclosed in the roots of a Bodhi tree.
There’s not much to see inside, they’re almost the same, headless Buddha images and stupas everywhere. I cycled around Wat Nok which is within the same block and has no entrance fee.
I passed by a little Thai spirit house under a tree by the river. These little houses are often charming miniature replica of a Thai-style house or temple. According to traditional Thai belief, the spirit house provides a home for the resident spirits of the compound. Wielding considerable power, resident spirits can play a major role in the fortune and destiny of the inhabitants of the compound. If the spirits are offended by inappropriate acts, neglect or disrespect, bad luck and misfortune befalls the owner and residents of the house. To appease and pacify the spirits, a daily offering of incense sticks, fresh flowers and food is presented.
Biking around an ancient park with rivers and trees everywhere is certainly, one of my most memorable post-birthday trips! Unfortunately, I had to leave, I didn’t get to see other equally important temples nor the King’s Summer Garden but one day I shall return. I wish I could’ve given justice to Ayutthaya, I should’ve spent more time or even stayed there overnight, I could’ve seen the light show of the temples at night.
I am thankful to my sister for suggesting that I visit Ayutthaya and there’s no cheaper way to get around the city than to go biking. Too bad I only get to explore it half day (and knowing me, I really take time to tour and savor each place I visit so I didn’t get to explore the whole city) and I had to get back to Bangkok to get my stuff at my guesthouse in Khao San Road and catch my flight at the Bangkok later that night. Had I known that I would miss my flight due to the heavy traffic because of the King’s birthday celebration at the Royal Avenue. I would’ve have stayed for the night at this charming old city.
How to get to Ayyuthaya:
Travel tips:
The temples with entry charges are usually in ruins, so there is no dress code, although visitors are still requested to refrain from blatant stupidity like clambering up the Buddha statues. Working temples tend to charge no fees and there are often no officials to check that a dress is appropriate (though it is advised to follow these customs to show respect for sacred places).
How to get to Ayutthaya:
By train
The cheapest and most scenic way of reaching Ayutthaya is by train. It regularly departs from Bangkok’s Hualamphong Train Station and stops in Ayutthaya. The trip takes about 2 – 2.5 hours depending on the type of service. Second class seats(A/C) cost 245 baht, third class is just 20 baht (!) (Reservations and seats are not guaranteed). (Fares in April 2010) Check time table here: (Please note that fares listed on the Thai railways site are out of date and incorrect) Also note that railway employees prefer not to sell 3rd class tickets to foreigners so if you’re on a budget; do insist with a smile.) And that some train stations (for instance Bang Khen) does not appear on the sites map, and that tickets may even be cheaper (12 baht from Bang Khen). If you have local friends, they may have some good advice.
The railway station is not on the island but across the river a short ferry ride away. Walk across the main road and down the small street straight ahead. Ferry boats run every few minutes and cost 4 baht.
By bus
Buses operate every 20 minutes or so from Bangkok’s Northern Bus Terminal (Moh Chit*) directly to Ayutthaya. First class air-con buses charge 50 baht. This trip is scheduled to be around an hour and a half, but allow at least two hours for the trip since the buses stop rather frequently and there are often jams on the roads out of/into Bangkok.
- To get to Northern Bus Terminal, take to Moh Chit BTS Station. Upon exiting gantry gates, cross the bridge on the right to go to bus-stop, and take bus service 3 or bus service 77. (Air-con buses charge 12 baht, non-air-con buses charge 7 baht.) Bus ride is about 10 – 15 minutes and the Northern Bus Terminal destination is the last stop for the bus services. However, buses do not stop in the Northern Bus Terminal, but at the bus stop across. Cross the bridge to get to the Bus Terminal.
Also you can take a minivan from the Victory Monument direct to Ayutthaya. Takes ~1 hour and costs 60baht. Buses depart every 20 minutes or so
The buses are from 4:30AM–7.15PM. For more details, please call Tel. 0 2936 2852-66 or see the website [1] and Ayutthaya Bus Terminal, Tel. 0 3533 5304.
In Ayutthaya, the central BKS bus station is on the south side of Thanon Naresuan next to the Chao Phrom Market. Songthaews to Bang Pa-In also leave from here. Some 1st-class buses to Bangkok, however, leave from the north side of the road some 500m to the west, on the other side of the khlong (canal); the queue for air-con buses is easy to spot.
From Kanchanaburi, take a local bus from the main bus station to Suphanburi for 45 baht (2 hours), then another local bus to Ayutthaya for 40 baht (1.5 hours). A taxi from Kanchanaburi costs 2000-2500 baht (2 hours).
There is also a central bus station east of town serving northern destinations. It can be reached by songthaew – ask around to find the appropriate stop.
By minibus (van)
Convenient minibus service (can get stuck in traffic, but makes no stops like regular buses) operates from the Victory Monument square in Bangkok. Take BTS Sky train to the Victory Monument station, and go right on the elevated walkway – keep on it until you cross a large road, then descend – the buses are parked at the side of the main traffic circle). The cost is usually ~70 baht, takes around 1 hour or 1 hour 20 min. It’s quite convenient since you don’t have to go to bus terminals (nearby Mochit) but the only problem is that the minibuses don’t have much space to put big bags and have to wait until the car is fully filled.
Minibuses (van) from Kanchanaburi can be arranged by guesthouses or any tour operators for around 350 baht.
Biking around the ruins is the most enjoyable and fun way to spend the day. The archaeological park is easily reachable and manageable on bike even if you aren’t very fit. The paths are paved and the distances between temples are small. You can rent a bicycle for around 50 baht per day. (As of Dec 2009) The bicycles are not necessarily well maintained, so be sure that they work properly (Wheels are firm, seats adjusted to your height and well attached, handlebars don’t slip. Good shops will give you a free bike lock as well) Free map of the city is widely available in all hotels. The park opens at 7.30 AM. It is recommended that you begin your tour early, before the tour groups arrive from Bangkok. Take a big bottle of water with you.
Bicycle rentals: Soi 2 (where the majority of tourist hotels and restaurants are located) have numerous bike rental facilities. They are all next to each other so it will be easy to shop around and find the one with the best bike for you.
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Bangkok is synonymous with shopping and Siam is one of the most intense and best shopping mecca in Bangkok where you’ll find a series of shopping malls which caters to different types of taste and budget from the opulent masses to the mid-range and the rather ordinary. These malls are accessible by buses and the Skytrain (BTS).
One fine morning, I took a bus from KSR to Siam. The bus dropped most of the passengers at Siam Center, so I went along with the crowd. The building is interconnected both to (more…)
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Dusit Park, Bangkok – Because of the King’s birthday celebration the night before I toured Dusit Park, the guards told me it is closed to the public (for that day only). Dusit Park is a relatively modern and spacious area north of Ko Rattanakosin, established during the reign of the celebrated King Chulalongkorn (Rama V). Upon his return from Europe in1897,the king used his personal money to purchase orchards and paddy fields between Padung Krungkasem Canal and Samsen Canal for the construction of a royal garden which he named “the Dusit Garden”.
the Marble Temple in Bangkok, Thailand
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Every travel guide, may it be book, website, blog, magazine will tell you, it’s a must see in Bangkok –> Rattanakosin Island , home to the famous Grand Palace, Wat Pho and Wat Arun, National Museum, Thammasat University, Silpakorn University and some important government buildings.
I started my Bangkok walking tour at Royal Avenue and ended up at Rattanakosin Island mid-afternoon. It was a very tiring tour (more…)
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Jun
08
2010
On my 1st day in Bangkok back in December of last year, I went for a walking tour at Ratchadamnoen Avenue or the Royal Avenue (the highway near Khao San Road). No bus, no tuktuk, no cab, just pure walk all day long. I have no idea where I’m going, I was just following my map. (You can get a free map of Bangkok at BKK airport at the ground floor Gate 8 or at second floor near 7Eleven).
Armed with a map, a book, a backpack, my good old camera and my tripod, I stopped by at 7 eleven to get some drinks and chips. I then headed towards the end of Khao San Rd and turned right upon seeing the Burger King, then crossed the highway (Ratchadamnoen Avenue or the Royal Avenue).
I walked towards the direction of the Democracy Monument for my first stop. It was constructed in 1932 to commemorate Thailand’s first constitution. A few meters away is the Queen’s Gallery. Gallery hours are 10:00 am – 7:00 pm daily (Closed Wednesday). The admission fee is 20 baht. The exhibitions change each month and feature some well know artist as well as younger Thai artist.
Across the Queen’s Gallery is Wat Ratchanatdaram, built during the reign of King Rama III in 1846. Loha Prasat (Metal Palace) one of its tourist attractions standing on its 36 meters high with 37 surrounding spires is the only one of its kind left in the world. The two other formerly built in India and Sri Lanka were already in ruins. Despite its name, there is no metal part in the structure except the lightning rods fixed to the pagoda tops. It is open daily from 9:00 AM- 5:00 PM. Nearby is a beautiful pavilion newly built for receiving guests of the state, and the Statue of King Rama III.
I went out of the temple through its gate on Mahachai Road, then I walked a few meters to another temple, Wat Thepthidaram. China’s influence is heavily reflected through the designs and decorations of porcelain and Chinese stone statues.
Walking back to the Royal Avenue, at the corner where Mahachai Road and the avenue meet is Mahakan Fort ( Phrakan Fortress) with a short section of the old city wall. Both were built by King Rama I. The fort was among the 14 erected to guard the capital. Unfortunately my Bangkok raw photos last December were corrupted. Pictures posted here were retrieved from my Facebook account.
After crossing Phan Fa Bridge just outside the fort, you will see at a short distance away on your right, a magnificent golden pagoda on top of a mount called Phukhao Thong (Golden Mount). It is located in the compound of Wat Saket. Built by King Rama IV, this gilded chedi houses a Buddha relic from India. You can reach the golden chedi by climbing a 318-step spiral stairway. On top, you’ll have a wide view of the older part of Bangkok. ( I didn’t climb the Golden Mount until I went back April this year). Walking back towards the Royal Avenue through the Phan Fa Bridge, you can see the canal. The canal by the way has boat rides bound to Siam area for 20 Baht.
I went back to Mahachai Road and walked further and ended up at F. Nakhon Road where I found Wat Ratchabophit. Built by King Rama V in 1869, it was in keeping with tradition that each monarch constructed a temple to mark his reign.
I was tired and starving already and luckily, I saw a pink tent full of eatery selling Thai foods. Again, I had no idea where I was. I kept asking and even showed every local I met my map but they couldn’t understand since the places on my map are written in English. Anyway, having tasted probably one of the most delicious side-walk foods in The City of Angels (at least for me). I started to walk again and ended at Lumphini Park and took a quick rest. Finally I could feel some fresh air on my face and I’m surrounded by trees not temples. I was at the park together with Thai elementary kids playing but we couldn’t understand each other.
Okay, so that was a wrong move but I enjoyed the park after getting lost anyway so it was worth it. Studying my map, after the Golden Mount, I would’ve walked back towards the Royal Avenue and continued walking past the Democracy Monument then passed the street where I first crossed after I left Khao San Road until I reached Dinso Road and walked further until I reach the Giant Swing. (I highly suggest you follow this route to avoid getting lost like me. )
Determined to find the Giant Swing from the park. I went searching for Tri Thong Road and thankfully, I found it! It was originally a huge arch with a swing underneath and was once used in Brahmanism ceremony, dedicated to the god Shiva. It was also used for a contest, the search for a man who could swing the highest to seize a money bag from the pole. But because of countless accidents and even deaths, the event was stopped.
Beside it is Wat Suthat, one of the oldest temples in Bangkok, with roof architecture like that of the Grand Palace. It is the house of the main Buddha image, Phra Si Sakayamuni the biggest and most beautiful 8 meter-high Sukhothai Buddha image.
I was amazed with the frescoes (wall paintings ) inside this temple which is regarded as one of the best in Thailand. Admission fee is 20 baht. The temple is open daily from 9.00 a.m. to 8.00 p.m.
Across the Giant Swing are some major buildings in Bangkok. On its right side is a quint street filled with rows of establishments that sells Buddha images. On the left there is a short narrow path leading to Phraeng Phuthon Community consisting of rows of 2-story shop houses painted in green and cream and built in the reign of King Rama V (1868-1910).
My last stop for the day was the must-see Rattanakosin Island, where the famous Grand Palace and Wat Po is located. (I’ll write a separate post of its walking tour).
After Rattanakosin, I walked back to Khao San Road and passed by the National Museum and the shrine of Erawan (the major one is located at Siam area).
I warn you, this is a bit tiring so you may want to opt to ride a cab or bus instead when you go back. Bus# 45 & Bus# 10 passes by Ratchadamnoen Avenue and from there you can just walk back to Khao San Road.
It may look as if it’s a long day but I really enjoyed each moment. I was a stranger straying in a foreign land, and the people I met could hardly understand me, but seeing those places, praying at a temple of a religion that’s different from mine, learning about the Thai culture, eating with the locals and walking with them is one of the best gift I’ve received on my birthday. There’s a lot more about Thailand that I have to learn, but I’ll take one step at a time, and this walking tour is just one of them.
Indeed, preservation of one’s own culture does not need contempt or disrespect for other cultures.
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Temple Rules of Etiquette
If you are sitting on the ground, tuck your feet under you so that they are not pointing at anyone or anything.
Do not take pictures of people while they are praying and do not have your picture taken with a Buddha image.
Women and men will not be permitted into a temple wearing revealing clothes, such as tank tops and shorts or skirts that fall above the knees. If you find yourself in this predicament, most temples will have sarong on hand for you to borrow.
Take off your shoes before you enter a temple for they are considered unclean and it is a sign of disrespect to wear them into such a sacred place.
Women should never touch a monk or hand him anything directly. When offering alms, place it on a table for the monk to pick up.
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For those who aren’t familiar with Khao San Road (KSR), allow me to share a brief intro about this famous road in Thailand. Khaosan” translates as “milled rice”, a reminder that in former times the street was a major Bangkok rice market. In the last 20 years, however, Khaosan Road has developed into a world-famous “backpacker ghetto” even long before the movie of Leonardo di Caprio ” The Beach” ( where he stayed at one of the guesthouse in this busy street) was filmed here. Hailed as one of the most famous road in the world, where the east and west meets, one can find people of all races here.
So how did the tranquil road turn out to be a Mecca for travelers?On the brink of Thailand’s economic boom in 1982, the Thai Government issued its policy to commemorate Bangkok’s bicentennial anniversary and celebrate the Buddhist calendar’s lucky year “2525″, by launching festive ceremonies in Bangkok to bring in tourist dollars. Tourists poured in from around the world, causing Bangkok’s hotels to overflow with bookings. The most spectacular festivities were performed in the Grand Palace. Some backpackers, unable to get an overpriced room, successfully convinced local residents on Khao San Road to rent out vacant rooms in their houses, reasoning that, in return, the guest house owners could earn some extra income and it was convenient for them to travel to their destinations. The guest house business generated more profits than any amateur entrepreneur ever expected. Before long, more guesthouses, restaurants and souvenir shops sprouted along the road in full bloom. (source:khaosanroad)
It was after my birthday last year in December when I first set foot in KSR . The sunrise greeted me at Khao San Road at around 9am. I managed to arrive in KSR safely despite taking the adventurous way (“pure commute” not the Airport Express Bus thingy and it’s my 1st time in BKK!) from Bangkok’s airport to Khao San Road (read my earlier posts about commuting to KSR from the airport). I would still recommend taking the Airport Express bus though to save you the hassle. I’m a self-confessed masochist, I so love adventure that’s why I took that route! 
There’s not much to see in KSR during the early part of the day, most establishments are still closed but the street suddenly transforms into its trademark –> crowded and bustling, as the day gets late. It’s like a home for hedonistic travelers: bars & cafe, street hawkers, food stalls, tattoo parlors, hostels, souvenir shops, travel agencies, and yeah, a couple of 7Eleven stores.
When I first planned for my Thailand trip last year, I consulted my good old friend Claudine who’s been around Asia for business trips. She then asked her Thai friend and they advised me to stay away from Khao San Road and find a hostel in Siam area instead which I think is another great option. But like I said, I am a masochist, I love adventure so I chose to head to KSR and not only that but most information available online is about KSR.
I didn’t arrive straight in KSR, the non-ac bus I took from Victory Monument for 12 baht dropped me off at the main highway so I had to cross the road and look for the street which thank God I found easily. The street is still dead at that time, but some taxi and tuktuk drivers waiting for the next tourist they could rip off. I have printed a list of guesthouses in KSR but because I’m dead tired and I don’t have a map of KSR just the Bangkok and Thailand map which doesn’t have a detailed map of KSR. I started searching for a place to stay and saw the famous Swasdee Inn signs (there are 2 of them), I turned right and followed the sign only to find out the single room left is for 700 baht. No way!
So I walked back and passed by a small restaurant, called D.O Guesthouse. The place looks cheap and ordinary, just like the bars you see in remote places (which I don’t mind because I’m missing the laid back life). I inquired about the rate, they only have fan rooms and shared bath for 170 baht, the caretaker showed me the room, as expected, it’s a humble room, imagine the room where Leo stayed in KSR on the movie, it looks like that only smaller but I took it anyway. I’m not really choosy when looking for a guesthouse, so long as I have a bed, a shower, and a fan at least, I’m cool w/ that. I’m always out anyway and would only be back in my guesthouse at night for some sleep.
So would I recommend you to stay at my cheap guesthouse? NO. The service is good but for security reasons I wouldn’t recommend it especially if you’re a girl and you’re traveling solo. There’s no gate and anyone can just get inside thru the establishments that’s connected to it. The doorknobs look pretty old and unsecured ( like anyone can just slip a hard card on it and get in) . There are only 2 bathrooms for all the rooms. And it gets so hot during the summer but then again if you’re traveling in a shoestring budget the rate could be really tempting! So whenever I sleep at night I just block the door with the table and my bed. Talk about paranoia. Oh well, better be safe than sorry!
I tried to get a room at Shambara Boutique Hostel and Restaurant which is located at the end of KSR. But check in time is at 1am. It looks like a relaxing place to stay at with rooms ranging from 300 baht for single room w/ fan to 450B for single room with air-condition and 500-700 baht for double rooms. I also went to Sawasdee Inn but they’re pretty expensive for a backpacker’s budget, with rates starting at 750 baht for a single room w/ ac.
What I don’t like about staying in KSR is that it’s so crowded and the noise outside gets into you room. But why stay in KSR anyway? 1st, it’s close to the Grand Palace where almost all the tourist spots in Bangkok is located. 2nd, the travel agencies everywhere makes it easier for you to tour Thailand and cross overland in a cheaper and less hassle way. And lastly, you also get to meet a lot of backpackers and travelers and you get to share the expenses with them if you’re headed on the same route and more importantly you’ll learn a lot from their experience.
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Getting to KSR from Bangkok Airport? You have 4 options. Read here.
Commuting from Bangkok Airport to KSR. Read Here
Commuting in Bangkok from KSR. Coming soon!
Khao San Road Tips:
KSR actually offers guesthouses and hotels for all types of budget. But it is famous for the budget travelers and young backpackers.
Never ever ride a taxi in KSR if you don’t like to be ripped off. (those are the cabs parked on KSR itself). You can walk to the end of the street (landmark is Burger King) , walk a few meters to the main road and hail a cab there instead.
Don’t expect super cheap shopping in KSR , it’s still cheaper in Divisoria, Quiapo and Cubao in the Philippines, the goods though are generally nice and trendy.
Or if you want to explore the cheapest way, then commute! ride a bus like I did. watch out or my post soon! or simply walk!
Explore, enjoy but be safe!
Where to stay in KSR:
D.O Guesthouse (read my post above for instructions and pictures).
Shambara Boutique Hostel and Restaurant
138 Khao San Road
Bangkok
+66-2-282-7968
+66-1-839-5155
+66-1-828-2970
Shambara website
Sawasdee Hotels
Address :
Sawasdee Group
Corporate Office Sawasdee & Woraburi Group
128/9 Sukhumvit Soi 4, Klongtoey, Bangkok 10110
Phone: +66-2256-0890
Fax: +66-2256-0737
Email: reservation@hotelsawasdee.com
Sawasdee website
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My KSR adventure wouldn’t be possible without the following people:
Agnes Orito, Claudine Claridad, Tita Ching, cuz Tad, Flipnomad and my siblings.
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