Siem Reap after sunset, taken during New Year in Cambodia

While most tourists would spend 2-3 days in Siem Reap, I opted to stay for 1 week.  Like I said, after my quick trip to Ayutthaya, I vowed never to be in a hurry in one country again as it defies the real essence of traveling.

The plane touched down at 12 am at BKK airport, again, I wasn’t able to to register on Roaming, so my phone is plain useless.  Like before I slept at the airport until sunrise.  I was so pre-occupied during the past few months that I failed to plan my Cambodia trip, I didn’t even change my peso to US$ before leaving the Philippines which was a BIG mistake!!!  Left me no choice but change my peso to US$ at BKK airport, but the employee at the money exchange refuse saying, it’s not good for me, Php100 is converted to US$1!!  What!!??? Oh, well,  I have no choice.

Lesson 1. Exchange your Peso to US$ before leaving the country.

my Thai food from 7Eleven

I went down to the 2nd floor to buy Thai foods at 7Eleven which is becoming my favorite as I can’t afford the exorbitant prices of the restaurants inside the airport.  The ready-to-eat meal which you can just heat in the microwave cost 35-45B and water is 10B up. Way cheaper! That’s Lesson 2.

how to sleep at Bangkok Airport

After my modest meal, I started to secure a bed ( interconnected chairs in the airport lounge)  for my 6 hours of sleep.  At 6am, I will commute to the North Bus Terminal to getto Aranyaprathet, Thailand then cross the border to Poipet , Cambodia and hopefully arrive safely in Siem Reap, Cambodia.

I hopped in to the free shuttle bus at the airport by 6am to the Transport Center, then took bus 55 to Victory Monument then took another bus to the North Bus terminal well-known as Mo Chit  Terminal . When  you get there, the bus station will read Chatuchak , don’t panic, you are at the right terminal.  But when commuting , it is advisable to tell the driver you are going to Mochit not Chatuchak if you don’t wanna end up at the weekend market.

Victory Monument

At the North Bus terminal, I paid 220B for the 1st class bus.  It was a 5 hour bus ride.  The difference between the 1st class and the 2nd class bus?  You get a SMALL juice, some  SMALL cookies and if you’re lucky a comfortable chair.

At the checkpoint, a young Thai man in his military uniform stepped inside the bus.  I was sitting beside a Thai in his mid-50′s,  and my RED backpack and my large weapon-like tripod in front of me. The guy in front of me was interrogated by the young military, unfortunately,  my stuff  caught the officers eye.  I changed outfit at the airport, I was wearing a shirt I bought from KSR, and with my sun-kissed tone, my black wavy hair, and small eyes, I am often mistaken as either a Thai or Cambodian.  He started speaking to me in his native language.  “I don’t understand.,” I said.  He then turned to the local beside me and I can tell  from the way he nodded his head, he denied that we’re  acquainted.  The officer then spoke to me in Thai again.  “I’m going to Cambodia”, I said.  As far as I’ve seen  in some movies,  Thailand prison cells are like the typical crowded, unsanitary and  infamous jails in the Philippines. Waaaahhh!!! I’m overthinking again!  I can’t help it!  At that point I know I have to calm myself down though deep inside my heart started to beat so fast.  I have to prove to him I’m a Filipino tourist.  So I grabbed my passport inside my sling bag and showed it to him.  He looked at it and said, “Ahhh, Filipino!”   He handed back my passport and as he stepped out of the bus with the guy in front of me, he looked at me and flashed a smile and waived his hand. Whew! I started gaining weird stares from the people on board.  And to escape it, I went back to sleep as if nothing happened. But, that incident really scared me to death!

Lesson 3.  Whenever I travel abroad, I guess it’s better to program my mind, that misadventures happens but then mishaps like that makes  the journey worthwhile. I’ll never stop learning you know!

Lane 116 at the North Bus Terminal (bus to Aranyaprathet,Thailand)

At the border, I took out my Thailand-Cambodia overland cheat-sheet that was sent by Marcos. I highlighted the travel warning:Lesson 4: The motor and the tuktuk will bring you to a non-official agency claiming to process visa, refuse it, ask the driver to send you directly to border-crossing.

I  planned to share a ride with the 2 young British teenagers  but they look like snobs so I went looking for a motor taxi. You know, it is  not true that whenever you travel you don’t judge people. Believe me, you do, though oftentimes it is unintentional.  I guess,  it is innate to humans  especially when they are in a culture or a land that is foreign to them.  But  the important  thing is, you still keep an open mind, stay flexible and suck in the whole experience!  It’s Lesson 5!

I opted to back ride with a woman driver, her face is half-covered with a piece of cloth, she quoted me 50B for that ride.  As expected, she took me to the agency for visa, and I saw the rest of the tourist where taken there too by their respective tuktuk.  A Thai guy in his slong sleeves,  met me and ask me to sit inside, he asked me for my passport and said, oh, Filipino, visa is free but you have to pay 300B for processing and yada yada yada. ” Crazy!  Free visa but I have to pay 300B!???  Ahhh, the notorious “visa scam!”, I murmured.  NO!, then I grabbed my passport and  I turned to the motor taxi driver and demanded to take me to the border directly.  She did, despite my rowdy attitude.

We stopped for the red light. A 4×4 passed by with kids behind it armed with water guns and pails. I suddenly remembered, oops, I’m still in Thailand and it’s Sokhran holiday! After a few seconds, the kid threw a small pail of water on me!  Comm’ on!  My Sling bag is not water proof and my precious camera is inside!!!  Waaaahhh! But before I can even complain, the light went green.  So as the driver started the engine, I hurriedly checked my camera inside.  Did the universe conspired again to make this trip a disaster!?  Good God, my camera is still working but I’m all wet!

The driver stopped at the “real visa border” and I still thanked her despite her attempt to cheat on me.  I guess the soft side of me understands why they have to do it, to make a living of course!  Sometimes, it’s not what they do, but why they do it.  That’s the downside to the rise of  tourism, it is directly proportional to the exploitation of tourists.

Now, you are about to read my BLATANT  STUPIDITY!!  And I wish after reading this, I won’t lose whatever respect  you have left for me!

I really can’t help but laugh whenever I remember this incident…

border of Aranyaprathet,Thailand

So, I walked towards the border,  and being born and raised in the Philippines, where we’re used to walking on the right side, I seem to have forgotten that it’s exactly the opposite in Thailand, so I kept following the right lane.  I guess because I was so darn tired and my brain is already malfunctioning that I didn’t even noticed that everyone I met seems to have come from the border instead on the right lane, a clear indication that it’s the entrance to Thailand.  But because I am STUPID, I still continued to walk, and the guard didn’t even stopped me!  I was about to enter when I read on the door that it is the EXIT door.  So I peeped inside to look for the entrance, and I saw a ticket booth  a few steps away. I asked the girl manning the booth, ” Where is the visa border to Cambodia?“.  She might have misunderstood me and pointed me towards  the same direction I’m walking.

I   did notice the paper  I just filled out is written in Thai and there’s no mention of Cambodia or whatever pertaining to it,  but because I am STUPID I didn’t question it  and I still queued up.  Then a Cambodian girl who works in Thailand on the other lane started a quick talk, everyday she has to get a pass to cross between the 2 countries.  My face lightened up when she mentioned she lives in Siem Reap, I planned to ask the girl if I could stay at her place (of course I intend to pay her for my stay), as humanly as possible, I prefer to stay at a local’s house than to sleep in a hostel during my trips.  I noticed in Cambodia, people are friendlier to tourist, I guess the confidence is strengthened by their proficiency in English.  Even the little kids  can speak to you in straight English. But as one of the Cambodian child vendor disclosed, they only SPEAK  English, but they can’t read nor write it.

The lane on my right side opened and the immigration officer called me. I handed her my passport , then I saw that  huge question mark  on her face.  She then started to question me, Why am I there and yada yada… Then she called her colleagues and they we’re all talking in Thai. My heart started thumping so fast again, ” Oh no, what’s the matter now!?”.   “When did you arrive in Bangkok?”, she asked in a bossy tone.  ” Earlier today, and I went straight here TO GO TO Cambodia, ” I answered.  She turned back to her colleagues again, then they started asking,“Then why are you here?  How did you get here? By plane?”.  I said ,” No, by bus from Thailand.“  She browsed my passport again and asked the same questions again, so I explained my route over and over.  Talk about language barrier. 

You know the way victims looks at suspects?  I started getting such looks. It’s such a shame! And worst, I’m affected! I wanted to cry but I had to fight it back. “I did nothing wrong what’s the matter? At that point, I lost my patience and got annoyed with the redundant questions. I asked the Thai Immigration official in a raucous tone,  “What’s the matter why don’t you want me to cross?  If you don’t want me to cross the border then I’ll just go back to Bangkok, so can I just get back my passport!? ” , with my hand trying to grab it.  A big NO, slammed my face, and the officer pulled back my passport”.

The same question went on and on for about 30 minutes.  At that point, I am scared big time and furious at the same time! “Now what will they do to me? Will they put me in jail? Will they confiscate my passport? Will I ever get back to the Philippines? What have I done wrong? Then, the officer called another Immigration officer,  this time it’s a guy.  He faced me, and asked me,”Why are you here? I said,” I am GOING TO Cambodia. ” Then he revised his question,” How did you get in this building?” . I told him I asked the lady at the ticket window and he directed me there. He knocked my head and laugh.  STUPID me!  He spoke w/ the other immigration officers and they all get it.  He escorted me to the left side of the building for  the Thai immigration to stamp my passport.  
Alright so that was albeit forgivable!  But I have put myself on real shame with the Thai Immigration when after having stamped on the left building to exit Aranyaprathet, I went back to the right building to the entrance to Thailand from Poipet!  What was I thinking!!!???  So the moment I walked in, the Thai Immigration officer  shouted and walked back to me.  She then assisted me towards the door and showed me the gate and all to exit to Poipet.

Lesson 6.   I guess the most important lesson of all  I learned that day is –> Use your common sense!!!  Ouch! 

I have read in most articles that Thai Immigration officers are the worst  in the world.  But with this incident, I guess I’ve proved the world wrong!

the border between Aranyaprathet, Thailand & Poipet, Cambodia

In front of the building is a health check station and you will be asked to stop and fill out a form. This station was put up  in response to the SARS or bird flu scare years ago.

By the way, you have to walk to the right side for the Cambodia passport control,  that’s  aside from the health check station. I was able to get to Poipet without being stamped but after seeing the other tourists walked towards the Cambodia Immigration post, I walked back to avoid another mistake.

Darn!  I have no pen! So,  I borrowed from another tourist.

Lesson 7. Always bring a pen when traveling!

I didn’t pay anything because Cambodia is a visa-free country for Filipinos.  The rest of the tourist paid $20 each.  I walked hurriedly towards Poipet. Yay!  I’m officially in Cambodia!  Then my quick  moment of happiness was broken when the tuktuk and cab drivers swarmed me!   There’s no public bus here, they all said. Oops!  Now how do I get to Siem Reap from Poipet!??  I saw a bus parked there but it seems like a tourist bus to me and there’s no driver and the drivers around me are starting to annoy me.  I’m already exhausted, after all  the misadventures that day, getting in trouble alone again is the last thing I need.  So I went back to the Cambodia Immigration center and  I approached a foreigner guy and  asked him wether I can join him and his friends. He gladly said ,YES.  He said he’s just waiting for the other 2 tourists whom he just met, he asked me wether I have a place to stay already and I said none yet.  I showed him a printed copy of what I researched online or rather what Marcos researched.  It’s $3 at the Green House, “Pretty cheap,”he said, “let’s get to that then!”  Then the Laos guesthouse on the paper caught his eyes. “You’re going to Laos??”  “Yes, I hope, “I answered. He then offered to exchange his Laos money.  He can’t exchange it outside Laos and he’s going home to US after 3 years  so the money would be useless to him. I don’t have enough cash with me so I told  him I’ll exchange it upon withdrawing cash in Cambodia.  It’s just a few dollars, around 300B maybe.

Poipet: a filthy border town of casinos

The 2 tourists are both from Ireland and they’ve been to the Philippines!  We rode the tourist bus I saw earlier.  The guy is really good looking (I think he looks like Brad Pitt but okay, she’s already with this beautiful simple African girl). They’re very friendly, they’re so excited to meet a Filipina traveling solo.  I remember the Cambodian tour operator told me went I went back to  Bangkok via the same route, “I rarely see Filipinos who travel, they come here to work”.  He was right of course.  Anyway, the 2 Irish backpackers  just visited the Philippines.  Donsol in Sorsogon, Mayon, Hundred Islands and other usual routes in the Lonely Planet  Philippines guidebook.

The bus ride took around 5 hours  I was sitting beside Josh, the American guy I approached earlier. Saw him browse his passport. Cool! It’s overwhelming with stamps! “ Backpacking? “, I asked.  “No, not actually, I’m based in Japan, as an English teacher. I travel from time to time and  just feel like I should tour Asia before I head back home to the US. Finally! ” I saw the excitement glared in his eyes, finally being able to come home after all these years, ahhh that is complete happiness and that’s my dream too, tour the world and finally come home!!!

Lesson 8. Whenever traveling, use your charm and join some other travelers in transit to the next destination if you feel it’s not safe to go solo, that’ll save you a lot and start new acquaintances or friendships.

somewhere in Cambodia

We stopped at a simple restaurant which is of course associated w/ the tour bus again. The food costs around 99B each and it’s all American dishes.  Just like in the Philippines, bus companies would have an agreement with certain restaurants, they will agree to stop over there, in return the drivers will get free meals.  I saw some tourists cross the street instead.  I followed them but I didnt cross the street anymore. I am hungry for Cambodian street foods!  I didn’t go all the way to Cambodia, just to eat all that American dishes we have back home!

Cambodian kids' playing

” Ahhh…so this is Cambodia!“, I murmured as I chanced up with some small kids playing something like those  Filipino games we used to play in the province, only that, theirs involves some cash.

I didn’t know if I  can take the food so I didn’t buy one, maybe I was distracted by the poor little chicks on a pen that are for sale and beside it lies dead chickens and it’s intestines. I am used to eating street foods in the Philippines,  but it’s probably the way they cook it and grill it in Cambodia that’s not appealing to me, like the grilled chicken with it’s feet. Back home, chicken feet is  sold separately.  I bought 2 soft drinks in can instead.  Thai street  foods are still the best for me.

street foods somewhere in Cambodia

Okay, so I was with Josh, the 2 Irish and the 2 American couples.  They took out their  LP  guidebook and said we we’re in the wrong route.  I was just smiling to myself, of course, this is a tourist bus, they will most likely take us to the guest house connected with the tour operators.  But you’d be given a choice of course, to stay or find a room somewhere else.

arrival in Siem Reap : Happy New Year!!!

We arrive at 8PM already and  we’re checking the rooms. But of course, I couldn’t share the room w/ Josh, so while they were looking for a bigger  and better . I decided that I’d get my own space, at $5 a day for a fan room  or $7 a day for an ac room, I could manage to survive in 1 week.  Besides  I couldn’t walk  around  in my undergarments or throw my things everywhere if I have a roommate. My room is just so messy whenever I travel.

lobby of our guesthouse : much better compared to my BKK guesthouse! lol

I didn’t see Josh and the rest of the guys anymore, except for one of the couples. She was talking to another tourist girl in the lobby whose been staying at the guesthouse  to get an idea about the place, she said she got a good feedback.  I thanked her and bid goodbye, and ask her to thank the rest of the guys for me.  Okay, so that was so rude of me, joining those guys and not even bidding goodbye was my gravest mistake that day. tsk tsk. That’s Lesson 9!

my humble room

I contemplated on writing every detail of  this overland because I feel like I’ll be putting myself in such a disgrace but I realized that announcing  my STUPID mistake in public will help prevent another one.  Makes me wanna plan my future travels to the max ! Being prepared may help prevent BLATANT STUPIDITY!!!  Now that’s Lesson 10!

Experience indeed is the most brutal of all teachers. But what I like about  mishaps is,  it keeps me down to my toes!

somewhere in Siem Reap lies a school for the monks and a cemetery inside it's grounds

Copyright secured by Digiprove © 2010 Gael Hilotin

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Bangkok is synonymous with shopping and Siam is one of the most intense and best shopping mecca in Bangkok where you’ll find a series of shopping malls which caters to different types of taste and budget from the opulent masses to the mid-range and the rather ordinary.  These malls are accessible by buses and the Skytrain (BTS).

inside Siam Paragon

One fine morning, I took a bus from KSR to Siam. The bus dropped most of the passengers at Siam Center, so I went along with the crowd.  The building is interconnected both to Siam Discovery on it’s left and Siam Paragon on it’s right. I didn’t go inside the center mall first but instead, head off to Siam Paragon to start my window shopping. hehe

Established in late 2005,  Siam Paragon is one of the high-end malls in Bangkok.  Before strolling inside, I had to spare some time for a precious photo op first along with other foreigners outside this mall!  It would’ve been better though if I was able to visit them at night when the malls are at their full glory with their glowing lights and all.  I was amazed that although this establishment is  meant to cater  to the upper class, it is pretty crowded, unlike in upscale malls  in the Philippines.

Upon entering this stylishly elegant mall I was greeted by cutesy Christmas decors just right off the fancy elevator and outlets of  global designers.  And since it’s the King’s birthday, there’s another booth where you can write a message to him.  Along with other Thais, I greeted the  Thai King in Tagalog! ahaha

I started my window shopping at the front gate, and to my amazement, all I can see are high-end brands everywhere!  Apparently,  I got tired of  torturing myself with all the glitters  of the luxury brands that I can’t afford.

So I decided to look for the Ocean World, Siam Paragon houses this largest Aquarium in South East Asia located at the basement just right after the food court.   Siam Ocean World takes you through seven different environments starting with the strangely titled ‘Weird and Wonderful’, the ‘Open Ocean’, ‘Deep Reef’, ‘Rain forest’, ‘Rocky Shore’, ‘Living Ocean’, and ‘Sea Jellies’.  The entrance fee though is pretty expensive 850B for adults! There are other activities too like Dive w/ the Sharks (5,300-6,600B depending on diving experience), Ocean walker (2000B),Glass Bottom Boat (150B), Sanyo 4DX-Venture (250B), Back of House Tour (200B), & Shark Encounter (500B).  I was taken aback by the rate, and being an ex-vegetarian,  I don’t like to go to aquariums and zoos, as humanly as possible.  Yes, it’s definitely  interesting and adventurous but I’d rather see them in their natural environment except of course to swim with the sharks in the vast sea! But I’ll probably visit the Manila Ocean  Park pretty soon which is way cheaper.

After my encounter with the elegant  Siam Paragon,  I walked back to Siam Center.   This mid-range mall  has been there before all others, established since 1976, thus one of the oldest known shopping malls in Bangkok.  It consists of 4 floors  and over the years has continued to get patronage from the teenagers and the young.  It simply reminds me of  those ordinary malls back home, but I do like it’s artsy side,  from the walls to the elevators,  where one can see a hint of art. 

Large range of shops from apparels by homegrown designers , shoes, mobiles and other gadgets, surf & skate equipments, jewelries, Internet cafes, restaurants,cafes, cosmetic salons,  dominate Siam center mall however you can’t find a cinema here.  Indeed,  it’s a great spot for observing the spending and social habits of the young mall-addicts.  I didn’t get to buy anything special though as I still find it more expensive (I always convert baht to peso whenever I check the price) compared to shopping in the Philippines.

Christmas Tree made with recycled stuff a project of Siam Discovery

Adjoining Siam Center is another old establishment,  Siam Discovery which caters to the young and young-at-heart and high-end to mid-range classes.  One can find a range of shops here by both the local designers and  posh European brands.

Walking a forward, I saw  the MBK (Mah Boon Krong) near the National Stadium , and is said to be Bangkok’s most legendary shopping mall, popular with both tourists and locals because of its bargain prices and faux designer brands.

MBK Shopping Center

There’s a lot of more of the shopping malls that I have missed like the Central World Plaza which I have passed by  but I just didn’t take a photo of it as I was unaware that it’s the largest mall in South-East Asia, and I guess blame it partly to my  debility, I was dead tired and I just wanna see the famous Jim Thompson’s house near the National Stadium.

the famous 'alien' right in front of the Bangkok Art and Culture Center

Another important building that is worthy of  attention is the Bangkok Art and Culture Center located  at the Pathumwan Junction, opposite MBK and the Siam Discovery Center. The 3rd floor entrance is connected to the BTS train (the National Stadium Station),  connecting bridge.  It has an impressive minimalist architecture  and the center is designed as an educational art space and magnet for inspiration and is open to the emerging Thai artist to market their work.

After a  few blocks, I finally saw a signage —> this way to Jim Thompson’s House. Yay! Jim  Thompson is an American businessman who helped revitalize the Thai silk and textile industry in the 1950s and 1960s.  A former U.S. military intelligence officer who once worked for the Office of Strategic Services, Thompson mysteriously disappeared while going for a walk in 1967, in the Cameron Highlands of Malaysia. Many hypotheses have been put forward to explain his disappearance, but what actually happened to him remains a mystery.

Since his disappearance in 1967, little has changed in the home that was the ‘talk of the town’ and the ‘city’s most celebrated social center’. Even today, the charming Thai style house continues to be a key stop for visitors to Bangkok.  The house consists of a complex of six traditional Thai-style houses, teak structures that were purchased from several owners and brought to the present location from various parts of Thailand. Construction of the  Jim Thompson Thai House was completed in 1959. (excerpt from it’s official website)

Surprisingly, this part of  Siam is  a big contrast to the bustling & noisy city.  I  felt fresh cool air on my face while walking  in the peaceful neighborhood,  surrounded by townhouses and condominiums.  I’m guessing this area is home to the affluent Thais and Expats.  The color red dominates this famous houses, one has to pay 100B for an entrance fee which goes to the Bangkok  School for the Blind. I noticed most visitors there are  old  American tourists which is not surprising at all  since Jim is an American.  There’s a cafe and souvenir shop available. The actual Thai house itself  itself is enveloped in a beautifully landscaped garden and a guided tour is a must (see details below this post).  I must say this is another  must-see in Siam for another cultural enlightenment and definitely a refreshing escape from the bustling city.

So would I recommend visiting Siam for 1st tourists in Bangkok!? Definitely, yes!   Besides, what is Bangkok without shopping!? Watch out once I get to explore the Thai flea markets!

Memories of Siam

Getting There:

*Siam Paragon*

Open: 10:00 – 22:00
Location: Next to Siam Centre, Pathumwan
BTS: Siam
Shopping Tip: For 5% discount on most purchases, you can apply for a Tourist Discount Card at the information desk on the ground level.

Siam Oceanworld

B1-B2 Floor, Siam Paragon, 991 Rama 1 Road, Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330 Thailand

Telephone : +66 2687 2000

*Siam Center*

Opening Hours: 9:00 – 21:00
Location: Siam
BTS: Siam

*Siam Discovery*

Opening Hours: 10:00 – 22:00
Location: Siam, Pathumwan
BTS: Siam

*MBK (Mah Boon Krong) Shopping Center*

Open: 11:00 – 22:00
Location: Phayathai Road, Pathumwan
BTS: National Stadium

*Bangkok Arts & Culture Center*

Buses: 15, 16, 21, 25, 29, 34, 36, 40, 47, 48, 50, 54, 73, 79, 93, 141, 159, 204, air-con 508, air-con 529.

BTS: National Stadium

Opening time

10 a.m. – 9 p.m. (closed Mondays)

Admission

Free entry to exhibitions, except for special events. Charges to concerts and plays will vary.

Bangkok Art and Culture Centre
939 Rama 1 Road
Wangmai
Pathumwan
Bangkok 10330

Tel. 02 214 6630-8
Fax 02 214 6639

*Jim Thompson’s Thai House*

The Jim Thompson House is located on Soi Kasemsan (2) Song, opposite the National Stadium on Rama I Rd.

Opening Hours : 09:00 to 17:00 everyday with the last Guided Tour at 17:00*

Getting to the Jim Thompson House : Located in the center of Bangkok, it is conveniently reached by car, taxi, Tuk tuk, or the Sky Train (Bangkok Transit System).

Admission : Adult 100 baht; Students 50 baht

* Compulsory guided tours around the house.

Contact information:
Jim Thompson House
6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Road, Bangkok
Tel: (662) 216-7368 Fax: (662) 612-3744

the child in me: @ Siam Ocean World

  Copyright secured by Digiprove © 2010 Gael Hilotin

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You may start this tour from the northern end of  Ratchadamnoen Nok Avenue where it meets Si Ayutthaya Road.  From the starting point facing the Equestrian Statue of King Rama V, turn right onto Si Ayutthaya Road and walk  a few steps straight and there’s you’ll will find on the right side, the Marble Temple or Wat Benchamabophit.

The entrance fee is 20 Bhat , and proper dress is required but in case you’re wearing a sleeveless top like me, they’ll let you borrow those colorful shawls.  I noticed that inside the ubosoth though, unlike any other temples in Bangkok, there are no  Thai mural temple paintings on the walls.  But the windows and doors outside still has this intricately carved Thai warriors which are  a characteristic of most Thai temples.  Enshrined inside the temple is the presiding Buddha image, Phra Phutthachinnarat, which  is a bronze replica of the original statue of the Sukhothai period found in Wat Mahathat in Phitsanulok province in the North of Thailand.

After returning the shawl that I borrowed, I took  a quick walk at the back of the main building and found a series of Buddha statues in different postures and styles. They are actually images found in neighboring Asian countries like Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar, Tibet and even from Japan.

When in Marble Temple, taking a walk in the entire compound is recommended. I particularly enjoyed sitting beside the canal w/ the friendly doves, savoring the serenity and fresh air of the place.   I  noticed a huge Bodhi tree (the tree under which the Buddha attained enlightenment) right beside the  temple. Beneath the holy tree is a burial site for monks.  It is said that, the present king, Rama IV, spent time as a monk here. After a brief rest, I walked through the short bridge towards the houses of the monks and other buildings inside.

Once you’re done with the Marble temple, you can now walk back to the starting point, where  you can find the Equestrian Statue with a majestic dome building Ananda Samakhom Throne Hall at the back.  Contrary to what I mostly read online, this Italian architecture inspired hall is open to the public because of the posh Thai art exhibits inside. Unfortunately, photography is prohibited inside the hall and even outside once you’re inside the gate, but I managed to steal a photo of  this magnificent hall.

So if you’ve visited the Grand Palace, the ticket to the Dusit Palaces is  already included and is usable within 7 days from the date of purchase. But if not, you can pay an entrance fee.  Since I arrived there past noon already, I headed toVimanmek Mansion first since it closes earlier  at 3:15pm. Unlike in the Grand Palace where  you can borrow  shawls and wrap around, in Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall if you’re not wearing the proper outfit (see bottom of this post for details), you have to buy  them.  It cost me 45B for a plain wrap around.   If you’re  looking for Thai exquisite arts, then this is a must-see!  I wish I could show you how it looks inside, but sadly, photography are strictly prohibited.

Ananda Samakhom Throne Hall was opened to the public due to the success of the Arts of the Kingdom V Exhibition held in late December 2007 and has now a permanent exhibition.  It displayed the masterpiece handiwork created by members of agricultural families, who learned Thai artistic skills from the Chitralada Arts and Crafts Centre under H.M. the Queen’s Royal Patronage. Some delicate works shown here are the replicas of royal thrones and barges, embroidered screens, silks, Silverware, Neilloware or Krueng Thom, Khram and more.  Each piece of work has an English label describing its details. English narration with a headset is also available (fee is 50B). I like the embroidered screens best which is done by tons of artisans, especially the Himavan forest which is crafted in traditional style of embroidery. It took 2 years & 6 months to finish it w/ 160 artisans working on it. And I was completely mesmerized with the ceiling of this magnificent  hall, depicting another Buddhist story in renaissance architecture.

After admiring the beauty of the exquisite Thai masterpieces, you can visit the souvenir shop or eat and enjoy the spectacular view of the Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall from the coffee shop located at the back of the building.

The Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall is another beautifully designed  building with carved floral motifs on panels adorning the gables and eaves.  It is a treasure house of handicraft representing the finest in Thai artistry and craftsmanship. These are the products of work sponsored by the  Foundation for the Promotion of Supplementary Occupations and Related Techniques or SUPPORT Foundation.  Again, the foundation was established under the royal patronage of HM Queen Sirikit to preserve traditional Thai art and handicraft and to assist rural folks in marketing their work to augment their incomes.

Once you’re done, you can now turn left  then ask the guard or follow the signage leading you to the most famous mansion in the Dusit Garden —> the elegant 81-room Vimanmek Palace, also known as Vimanmek mansion which is hailed as the largest golden teak wood mansion in the world!  It’s the first permanent residence in Dusit Garden. Its elaborate architectural style reflects a western influence reflecting Rama V’s general love of things western, and is filled with an amazing collection of pieces of art, jewelry, antiques, paintings and photos from Europe and elsewhere. There are altogether 31 exhibition rooms, some of which maintain the atmosphere of the past, especially the bedrooms, the Audience Chamber and the bathrooms. Some rooms house exhibitions of art works, for example, there is a silverware display room, a ceramic display room, a glassware display room and an ivory display room. There’s a free English guided tour in the mansion, and each tour is only about 15 minutes. No photography allowed, even cellphones are asked to be left behind. It cost me 20B for a huge locker. You’d have to wait in the lobby for instructions for your turn to tour. After the tour, you are now allowed to take a picture of the mansion outside.

Mind you though, there are other equally important exhibit houses inside, I was pressed for time so I didn’t get to tour them all, but the ones I featured here are the  top attractions of the Dusit Garden.  Alright, so after the awesome experience at the Dusit Palaces, you may now head to the Dusit Zoo and relax.  But I didn’t get inside the zoo, I’m not a fan of  zoos, as much as possible I don’t want to patronize them. Peeping from the outside though, I saw the lush green  surroundings and large ponds with foot-paddle boats, playgrounds for the kids and shady picnic areas.

Indeed, Thai culture and Bangkok attractions cannot be experienced and enjoyed through the glass panes of a moving taxi, or on the back of a loud tuk-tuk!  So once you hit Bangkok, discover exciting places at your own risk, it’s a must! And perhaps you’ll never have to wonder why many tourists keep coming back to the “City of Angels”.

How to get to Dusit Park in Bangkok:
Ordinary bus number 70 stops on Uthong Nai road, which is between Vimanmek Mansion and Dusit Zoo. Ordinary buses 18, 28 and 108 and air-conditioned number 16 stop on Ratchawithi road, slightly north. Ordinary buses 56, 72, 99, 110 and air-conditioned bus 9 all stop nearby also. River transport isn’t really the best option either, as the nearest piers Tha Thewet and Tha Wasukri is still a couple of kilometers away, and there’s no buses near the piers.

Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall:

Open every day 9.30 a.m. – 4.00 p.m. except on Chulalongkorn Day (23 October), the King’s birthday (05 December) and the Queen’s birthday (12 August).

Admission fee: 150B

-Shorts and sleeveless shirts are not allowed. Women are required to wear appropriate length skirts only. The museum offers Thai wrap skirts and shawls at low prices.

-The Grand Palace tour tickets can be used here within 7 days after purchasing date.

Vimanmek Mansion:

-Open every day 9:30am-3:15pm

-Tickets Sold until 3pm

-The last group tour starts at 3:15pm.

-Map for taxi or phone: 02-628-6300

Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall

Daily 9:30 am-4 pm

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I started my Bangkok walking tour at Royal Avenue and ended up at Rattanakosin Island mid-afternoon. It was a very tiring tour but it’s worth all the sweat! I didn’t however get to tour  The Grand Palace until April of this year, as the entrance fee was pretty expensive for me –>350B!!!   You can only use the ticket for the Grand Palace on the day you bought it ( which closes at 4:30PM Bangkok time, last ticket sold at 3:30pm)  but the rest of the ticket is usable for 7 days for the Dusit Area. I will be writing a separate entry about the Grand Palace Tour so watch out for that.

I regret being too lazy and writing this post only today as I am really having a hard time remembering the route I took to reach the Grand Palace, so I’m analyzing the 3 maps I used that day while composing this.

The Ministry of Defense Building beside the City Pillar

This tour started at  Lak Muang or The City Pillar which is regarded as the heart of the city and houses Phra Lak Muang, the guardian spirit of Bangkok. It was  erected when Bangkok was established as a capital of Thailand. Walking south, I saw the Grand Palace walls.  I crossed the street and headed towards the main entrance.

As I said since the entrance fee is not on my budget, I just went inside the gate and took some pictures of it’s surroundings, besides, it was already 3pm and it closes at 4:30 pm so I don’t have much time to explore it.  I was able to tour it  only after 4 months, April of this year.

The Grand Palace is one of the most photographed tourist site in Bangkok.  It consists of  government offices, royal residence, throne halls,  museums and the famous Temple of the Emerald Buddha (made of jade).  I have read that to photograph it is strictly forbidden and this is not just a requirement of the chapel; taking pictures of Buddha images is against the law but  I was surprised to find out ( I overheard a tourist guide tell his clients ) that we can take a photo of  it while outside the temple.  (Pls. read the important tips at the bottom of this  post if you plan to take this tour, might be of help.)

Other main attractions inside the Grand Palace are : The Upper Terrace, Subsidiary Buildings, The Galleries, The Phra Maha Monthian Group, The Chakri Group, The Dusit Group and The Borom Phiman Mansion.

Borom Phiman Mansion

Dress code is strictly observed so upon entry at the main gate.  You can  look at the pictures posted outside the hall so you’ll know wether you’re wearing the appropriate outfit.  But  hey, no worries, if your like me who happens to wear a prohibited one, you can simply deposit 200B and get a wrap around or apparels that you can use while inside the Grand Palace. You can just return it after your tour and get your money back.

Phra Mondop (the gold chedi) and Phra Siratana Chedi

They say when you are in Bangkok, temple overload is  expected, so I think a visit to the Grand Palace would be enough to avoid that.  You will be provided a handy guide  w/ a map inside upon entry so there’s a slim chance that you’ll get lost inside, besides if you do, then just ask around!

the Temple of the Emerald Buddha's outside wall

Exit by the same way you entered the Grand Palace and return the apparels you borrowed and get your money back.  It took me more or less 3 hours to finish the entire area, I really took the time to visit each and every attraction inside, even the museums.

Upon walking out of the main gate, I turned right  then headed south along the palace wall  to the direction of the City Pillar Shrine (do not cross the street ). I turned right  and walk until I reached the end of the Grand Palace wall .   Then crossed the street towards the entrance to the oldest and biggest temple What Pho or Wat Phra Chetuphon which houses the largest number of chedi ( ‘spiritual monument’ in Thai) in Bangkok.

chedi @ Wat Pho

There are several buddha inside this majestic temple but What Pho is famous for the Reclining Buddha and it’s Thai Traditional Massage School.

the Reclining Buddha

I remember I went out of the gate close to the house of the Reclining Buddha. I crossed the street ,and walked left  then northwards. At the end of the street I saw several shop houses, sidewalk vendors and a small market that sells dried fish and Thai foods.

Black and Gold Buddha @ What Pho

It just took me a few steps  before I  reached the pier – Tha Tian across What Pho, from which you may take a ferry to Wat Arun or the Temple of Dawn. This famous temple is attractive in its striking pagoda decorated with multi-colored porcelain fragments.

Temple Rules of Etiquette

As Wat Phra Kaew is Thailand’s most important temple, you are expected to dress appropriately or risk being turned away. Signs put up around the entrance show you are not permitted to enter wearing shorts, sleeveless shirts, singlets or any form of open ended shoes. Sarongs and long trousers are usually available for loan should you forget.

Photography inside the Emerald Buddha Chapel is strictly forbidden.

Under no circumstances must you point your feet at the Emerald Buddha – to do so is sacrilege. If you can not cross you legs, avoid sitting down. If you do point your feet at the Buddha image, you could be ejected. So i f you are sitting on the ground, tuck your feet under you so that they are not pointing at anyone or anything.

Do not take pictures of people while they are praying and do not have your picture taken with a Buddha image.

Take off your shoes before you enter a temple for they are considered unclean and it is a sign of disrespect to wear them into such a sacred place.

Women should never touch a monk or hand him anything directly. When offering alms, place it on a table for the monk to pick up.

Commuting to the Grand Palace:

Don’t listen to anyone on the street as you try to enter telling you it’s closed for a ‘Buddhist holiday’, ‘cleaning’ etc, or asking if you want to see the ‘Lucky Buddha’ instead – it’s all part of a sophisticated gem scam.

Ordinary buses 44, 47 and 91 stop on Thaiwang road between Wat Pho and Wat Phra Kaew.

Ordinary buses 1, 25, 44, 47, 82 and 91 also stop on Maharat road, on the west of Wat Phra Kaew.

At  Sanam Luang, north of Wat Phra Kaew, ordinary buses 3, 15, 30, 32, 43, 44, 59, 64, 70, 80, 123 and 201 all stop, as well as air-conditioned buses 6, 7, 12, 39 and 44.

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Armed w/ a map, a book, a backpack, my good old cam and my tripod, I stopped by at 7 eleven to get some drinks and chips.   I then headed towards the end of  Khao San Rd and turned right upon seeing the Burger King, then crossed the highway (Ratchadamnoen Avenue or the Royal Avenue).

The Democracy Monument

I walked towards the direction of the Democracy Monument for my 1st stop. It was constructed in 1932 to commemorate Thailand’s first constitution.

The Queen's Gallery

A few meters away is the Queens Gallery. Gallery hours are 10:00 am – 7:00 pm daily (Closed Wednesday). The admission fee is 20 baht.The exhibitions change each month and feature some well know artist as well as younger Thai artist.

Wat Ratchanatdaram

Across the Queen’s Gallery is Wat Ratchanatdaram, it is built in the reign of King Rama III in 1846.

Loha Prasat

Loha Prasat (Metal Palace) one of its tourist attractions standing on its 36 meters high with 37 surrounding spires is the only one of its kind left in the world (The two other formerly built in India and Sri Lanka were already in ruins.).  Despite its name, there is no metal part in the whole structure except the lightning rods fixed to the pagoda tops.  It is  open daily from 9.00 a.m.- 5.00 p.m.  Nearby is a beautiful pavilion newly built for receiving guests of state, and the Statue of King Rama III.

statue of King Rama III

I went  out of the temple through its gate on Mahachai Road,  then right and I walked a few meters  to another temple, Wat Thepthidaram.

The influence of China is reflected through the designs and decorations of porcelain and Chinese stone statues.

Walking back to the Royal Avenue, at the corner where Mahachai Road and the avenue meet is Mahakan Fort ( Phrakan Fortress)  with a short section of the old city wall. Both were built by King Rama I. The fort was among the 14 erected to guard the capital. (Unfortunately my  Bangkok raw pix last Dec we’re accidentally deleted by my sib. *sniff sniff*. Pix posted here are retrieved from my facebook account).

The Golden Mount

After crossing Phan Fa Bridge just outside the fort, you will see at a short distance away on your right, a magnificent golden pagoda on top of a mount called Phukhao Thong (Golden Mount).  It is located in the compound of Wat Saket. Built by King Rama IV, this gilded chedi houses a Buddha relic from India. The golden chedi can be reached by a 318-step spiral stairway.  On top, you’ll have a wide view of the older part of Bangkok.  ( I didn’t climb the Golden Mount until I went back April this year).  Walking back towards the Royal Avenue through the Phan Fa Bridge, you can see the canal.  The canal by the way has boat rides bound to Siam area for 20B.

I went back to Mahachai Road and walked further and ended up  F. Nakhon Road where I found  Wat Ratchabophit. Built by King Rama V in 1869, it was in keeping with tradition that each monarch constructed a temple to mark his reign.

the surroundings of Wat Ratchabophit.

I was tired and starving  already and luckily, I saw a pink tent with carinderia selling Thai foods.  Again, I have no idea where I’m at.  I kept asking and even showed the Thais I met my map but they couldn’t understand since  the places on my map  are written in English so they couldn’t figure it out.   Anyway, having tasted probably one of the most delicious side walk foods  in  The City of Angels (at least for me).  I started to walk again and ended at Lumphini Park  and took a quick rest.  Finally I could feel some fresh air on my face and I’m surrounded by trees not temples. I was at the park together with Thai elementary kids playing but we couldn’t understand each other.

the park

Okay, so that was a wrong move but I enjoyed the park after getting lost anyway so it was worth it. hehe.  Studying my map, after the Golden Mount, I could’ve  walked back towards the Royal Avenue and continued walking passed the Democracy Monument then passed the  street where I first crossed  after I left Khao San Road until I reached Dinso Road and walked further until I reach the Giant Swing.  (I highly suggest you follow this route to avoid getting lost like me. hihi)

The Giant Swing

Determined to find the Giant Swing from the park. I went searching for Tri Thong Road and alas! I found it! yay!

It was originally a huge arch with a swing underneath and was once used in Brahmanic ceremony, dedicated to the god Shiva.  It was also used for a contest, the search for a  man who could swing the highest to seize a money bag from the pole. But because of countless accidents and even deaths, the event was stopped.

Phra Si Sakayamuni

Beside it is Wat Suthat, one of the oldest temples in Bangkok, with  roof architecture  similar to that of the Grand Palace.  It is the house of the main Buddha image, Phra Si Sakayamuni which is the biggest and most beautiful 8 meter high Sukhothai Buddha image.

frescoes at Wat Suthat

I was amazed with the frescoes (wall paintings ) inside this temple which is  regarded as some of the best in Thailand.  Admission fee is 20 B, the temple is open daily from 9.00 a.m. to 8.00 p.m.

Across the Giant Swing are some major buildings in Bangkok. On it’s right side is a quint street filled with rows of establishments  that sells Buddha images.  On the left there is a short narrow path leading to Phraeng Phuthon Community consisting of rows of 2-story shop houses painted in green and cream and built in the reign of King Rama V (1868-1910).

Phraeng Phuthon Community

My last stop for the day was  the must-see  Rattanakosin Island, where the famous Grand Palace and Wat Po is located.  (I’ll write a separate post of it’s walking tour).

outside the Grand Palace

After Rattanakosin, I walked back to Khao San Road and passed by  the National Museum….

…and the shrine of  Erawan (the major one is located at Siam area).

I warn you, this is a bit tiring so you may wanna opt to ride a cab or bus instead when you go back.  Bus# 45 & Bus# 10 passes by Ratchadamnoen Avenue and from there you can just walk back to Khao San Road.  It  may look as if it’s a long day but I really enjoyed each moment. I was a stranger straying in a foreign land, and the people I met could hardly understand me, but seeing those places, praying at a temple of a religion  that’s different from mine,  learning about the Thai culture,  eating with the locals and walking with them is one of the best gift I’ve received on my birthday. There’s a lot more about Thailand that I have to learn, but I’ll take one step at a time, and this walking tour is just one of  them.  Indeed,  preservation of one’s own culture does not require contempt or disrespect for other cultures.

Temple Rules of Etiquette

If you are sitting on the ground, tuck your feet under you so that they are not pointing at anyone or anything.

Do not take pictures of people while they are praying and do not have your picture taken with a Buddha image.

Women and men will not be permitted into a temple wearing revealing clothes, such as tank tops and shorts or skirts that fall above the knees. If you find yourself in this predicament, most temples will have sarongs on hand for you to borrow.

Take off your shoes before you enter a temple for they are considered unclean and it is a sign of disrespect to wear them into such a sacred place.

Women should never touch a monk or hand him anything directly. When offering alms, place it on a table for the monk to pick up.

  Copyright secured by Digiprove © 2010 Gael Hilotin

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So how did the tranquil road turn out to be a Mecca for travelers? On the brink of Thailand’s economic boom in 1982, the Thai Government issued its policy to commemorate Bangkok’s bicentennial anniversary and celebrate the Buddhist calendar’s lucky year “2525″, by launching festive ceremonies in Bangkok to bring in tourist dollars. Tourists poured in from around the world, causing Bangkok’s hotels to overflow with bookings. The most spectacular festivities were performed in the Grand Palace. Some backpackers, unable to get an overpriced room, successfully convinced local residents on Khao San Road to rent out vacant rooms in their houses, reasoning that, in return, the guest house owners could earn some extra income and it was convenient for them to travel to their destinations. The guest house business generated more profits than any amateur entrepreneur ever expected. Before long, more guesthouses, restaurants and souvenir shops sprouted along the road in full bloom. (source:khaosanroad)

It was after my birthday last year in December when I first set foot in KSR . The sunrise greeted me at Khao San Road at around 9am.  I managed to arrive in KSR safely despite taking the adventurous way (“pure commute” not the Airport Express Bus thingy and it’s my 1st time in BKK!)  from Bangkok’s airport to Khao San Road (read my previous posts regarding commuting to KSR from the airport).  I would still recommend taking the Airport Express bus though to save you the hassle.  I’m a self-confessed masochist, I so love adventure that’s why I took that route! 

There’s not much to see in KSR during the early part of the day, most establishments are still closed but the street suddenly transforms into it’s trademark –> crowded and bustling, as the day gets late.  It’s like a home for hedonistic travelers: bars & cafes, street hawkers, food stalls, tattoo parlors, hostels, souvenir shops, travel agencies, and yeah, a couple of 7eleven stores.

a tatoo parlor

When I first planned for my Thailand trip last year, I consulted my good ol’ frnd Claudine who’s been around Asia for business trips. She then asked her Thai friend and they advised me to stay away from Khao San Road and find a hostel in Siam area instead which I think is another great option. But like I said, I am a masochist, I love adventure  so I  chose to head to KSR and not only that but most information available online is about KSR.

Khao San at night

I didn’t arrive straight in KSR, the non-ac bus I took from Victory Monument for 12B dropped me off at the main highway so I had to cross the road and look for the street which thank God I found easily. The street is still dead at that time, but there are some taxi and tuktuk drivers waiting for the next tourist they could rip off (lol). I have printed a list of guesthouses in KSR but because I’m dead tired and I don’t have a map of KSR just the bangkok and thailand map w/c doesn’t have a detailed map of KSR. I started searching for a place to stay and saw the famous Swasdee Inn signs (there’s 2 of them), I turned right and followed the sign only to find out the single room left is for 700B. No way!

there's 2 signboard in Swasdee in KSR, look for the smaller one as seen on this pic

So I walked back and passed by a small resto, called  D.O Guesthouse.  The place looks  cheap and ordinary,  just like the bars you see in remote places (which I don’t mind because I’m missing the laid back life).  I inquired about the rate, they only have fan rooms and shared bath for 170B, the caretaker showed me the room, as expected, it’s a humble room, imagine the room where Leo stayed in KSR on the movie, it looks like that only smaller but I took it anyway. I’m not really choosy when  looking for a guesthouse, so long as I have a bed, a shower, and a fan at least, I’m cool w/ that.  I’m always out anyway and would only be back in my guesthouse at night for some sleep.

my humble guesthouse

So would I recommend you to  stay at my cheap guesthouse? NO.  The service is good but for security reasons I wouldn’t  recommend it  especially if you’re a girl and you’re traveling solo.  There’s no gate and anyone can just get inside thru the establishments that’s connected to it.  The doorknobs looks pretty old and unsecured ( like anyone can just slip a  hard card on it and get in) .  There’s only 2 bathrooms for all the rooms.  And it gets so freakin’ hot during the summer but then again if you’re traveling in a shoestring budget the rate could be  really  tempting!   So what whenever I sleep at night I just block the door  with the table and my bed. Talk about paranoia huh!?  Well,  better be safe than sorry!

my humble and messy room! =))

I tried to get a room at  Shambara Boutique Hostel and Restaurant which is located at the end of KSR  which I got from Nina.  But check in time is at 1am.  It looks like a relaxing place to stay at with rooms ranging from 300B for single room w/ fan to 450B fr single room w/ AC and 500B-700B for Double rooms. I also went to Sawasdee Inn but they’re pretty expensive for a backpacker’s budget, with rates starting at 750B for a single room w/ ac.

What I don’t like about staying in  KSR is that it’s so crowded and the noise outside gets into you room.  But why stay in KSR anyway? 1st, it’s close to the Grand Palace where almost all the tourist spots in Bangkok is located. 2nd, the travel agencies everywhere makes it easier for you to tour Thailand and cross overland in a cheaper and less hassle way.  And lastly, you also get to meet a lot of backpackers and travelers and you get to share the expenses with them if your headed on the same route and more importantly you’ll learn a lot from their experience.

I pray namaste! McDo in Khao San Rd =))

Getting to KSR frm Bangkok Airport?  Yo have 4 options. Read here.

Commuting from Bangkok Airport to KSR. Read Here.

Commuting in Bangkok from KSR. Coming soon!

Khao San Road Tips:

KSR actually offers guesthouses and hotels for all types of budget. But it is famous for the budget travelers and young backpackers.

Never ever ride a taxi in KSR   if  you don’t like to be ripped off. (those are the cabs parked on KSR itself). You can walk to the end of the street (landmark is Burger King) , walk a few meters  to the main road and hail a cab there instead.

Don’t expect super cheap shopping in KSR , it’s still cheaper in Divisoria, Quiapo and Cubao in the Philippines, the goods though are generally nice and trendy.

Or if you wanna explore the cheapest way, then commute! ride a bus like I did.  watch out or my post soon! or simply walk!

Explore, enjoy but be safe!

Where to stay in KSR:

D.O  Guesthouse (read my post above for instructions and pictures).

Shambara Boutique Hostel and Restaurant
138 Khao San Road
Bangkok
+66-2-282-7968
+66-1-839-5155
+66-1-828-2970

Shambara website

Sawasdee Hotels

Address :
Sawasdee Group
Corporate Office Sawasdee & Woraburi Group
128/9 Sukhumvit Soi 4, Klongtoey, Bangkok 10110
Phone: +66-2256-0890
Fax: +66-2256-0737

Email: reservation@hotelsawasdee.com

Sawasdee website

My KSR adventure wouldn’t be possible without the following people:

Agnes Orito, Claudine Claridad, Tita Ching, cuz Tad, Flipnomad and my siblings.

at the Marble temple's garden

  Copyright secured by Digiprove © 2010 Gael Hilotin

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My original flight was booked in Clark, I bought the round trip ticket two months prior to my trip at a very cheap price. But because I printed the ticket on the day of my flight only at exactly 5 hours before my departure, that was the only time I realized that oops! I’m booked for 9pm not 11pm( got confused w/ the military time on the e-ticket) and I’m still in Manila.

It’s my birthday and i opt for an out of the country solitary trip. I am more of an adventurer, I opt for backpacking rather than party on my big day. I was scared to do it at first, I’ve been asking my classmate back in college who is based in Chang Mai, Thailand and she warned me about my plan. “Gael, it’s not like Manila, I understand you’ve been traveling solo in our country but you’ll have a hard time because people here don’t speak English and the signs are written in Thai language and it could be a bit dangerous if you’re alone and I’m 8 hours away from Bangkok.”

Khao San Rd, Bangkok

My original plan was to head to Phuket after Bangkok. Yes, The Beach, Leonardo Di Caprio’s movie which was based on Alex Garland‘s novel inspired my backpacking. Surprisingly, the novel is actually an anti-traveler not a celebration of the backpacking culture according to the author himself. The book was based on Garland’s backpacking experience in the Philippines (he stayed 6 months in El Nido, Palawan) but the movie was set in Thailand for the obvious reason –> Bangkok is well-known for backpackers particularly the backpacker’s mecca Khao San Road. I encountered this famous street while browsing about the movie The Beach on the internet.

Since the island hopping to Koh Phi Phi Island (the beach in the movie which looks like El Nido’s lagoon) down south will cost me a lot, I decided to change my route to Bangkok-North Thailand-Burma, since my friend Agnes is also there. I wanted to see the newest temple, the white temple in Chang Rai, The Golden Triangle, The Mekong River and the Opium Hall. I’ve always wanted to cross borders like any other backpackers.

My plan didn’t materialize because a day before my birthday at 11pm, I am standing alone in the dark at the Clark airport, the plane left and the airport is closed according to the guard. There’s no more jeepney back to Angeles at that time too, I could take a cab which I would have to walk a few meters for Php 400 or I could accept the motorcycle ride offered by the guard. Knowing the stingy me, I opted for the motorcycle ride, I was scared with the guards but I had to be tough and polite so the naughty strangers will return the favor, that’s my mechanism whenever I’m trapped in an awful and scary situation. I know that being grumpy and snob will only put me into more trouble.

Dau, Pampanga

At roughly 11:30 pm, I was back riding in a stranger’s bike, with the full moon above me and the cool wind brushing my my face. I miss back riding a lot. The guard dropped me off at Angeles. While I was walking the still lively street of the town, an old woman manning a public bathroom warned me to get a room to stay , “Madame foreigners dito, delikado, baka ma pick-up ka. “, she said. I immediately took a jeep to Dau to the bus station but my tummy was making a loud noise that upon seeing a still open carinderia, I went down the jeep to feed my poor starving tummy.

where I had my bday dinner, a carinderia in Dau, Pampanga

At 12midnight, I am having my simple birthday dinner alone in a carinderia in Dau. Happy birthday!

I never liked parties but my loving mother used to throw me one always during my childhood years, but when I entered college, I refuse to celebrate my birthday. Perhaps because I’m a huge fan of  Peter Pan, I don’t wanna grow up..so I don’t wanna remember I am adding another number to my age. lol

After my delightful birthday dinner and much regret, I’ve gathered enough courage to pursue my backpacking plan. Sometimes, even if it’s not meant to be, you have to make things happen. So I crossed the street and entered a 24 hour internet shop, booked another flight to Bangkok but this time, it’s in Manila to save me another trouble but the ticket cost me 2 times the rate of my round trip ticket. tsk tsk tsk.

Two days after my birthday. I am standing at the window of  NAIA 3, bombarded with questions by the young (handsome but snob) immigration officer. You’re alone? Why do you have 2 tickets? You’re left by you’re flight or they didn’t allow you to go?. These are just a few questions, there’s actually more that I noticed the line behind me was getting longer and longer. I suddenly remember my friend Claudine telling me to speak in English which I forgot to do. He bluntly told me, “Nagdududa talaga ako sayo, kase baket mag-isa ka lang?”. After a series of questions, I guess he got tired, “Pls pls, it’s my birthday and I just wanna see Bangkok for 2 days”, he checked my work ID and passport looking for my DOB. “ Oo na, Sige na, sige na“, he said.

Okay, the plan was for 2 days but due to heavy traffic at Khao San Road during my flight back which happened to be the King’s birthday, I was left again by my return flight !!!  My stay was extended.  Paranoia bugged me all day, knowing I have no credit card and not enough cash left for that expensive return ticket  that the agencies in Bangkok are offering me (since airline tickets costs more if purchased on the flight date or near the flight date).  I am thankful for Cebu Pacific for introducing the  pay over the counter, debit card  &  pay via Megalink or Bancnet thingy. But I wish they could also offer the pay via International ATM’s (Expressnet, Plus, etc), that would really help attract more tourists and backpackers to the tourist since not everyone has credit cards or debit cards you know (especially for budget traveler like me), but we carry ATMs. And how did I managed to buy a return ticket? Well, I had to open my facebook and since my sisbs are facebook addicts, early in the morning I bugged them to call my aunt and ask for her credit card info so I could book online and I’ll just pay her when I get back.  The ticket though cost me thrice the cost of my return ticket.

Bangkok Airport

Alright, so I’m not supposed to talk about my return flight here but my transit to Bangkok International Airport or Suvarnabhumi Aiport and finally making it to Khao San Road.

My agony didn’t end after passing through that skeptical immigration officer, I saw another officer approaching me asking if I have a problem, I probably looked so annoyed so he approached me, and asked me “My problema po ba?’, I walked fast, didn’t even look at his face and just told him, I’m fine.  I just recently learned from my aunt that that guy is actually my cousin whose working at the Immigration, haha. I didn’t recognize him because I didn’t even bother to look at him because of the fear of another interrogation. It so happened that he saw me at the window and suspected a problem so he hurried to my direction to help me but too late because the immigration officer already let me in.

Suvarnabhumi airport

At 1am Bangkok time (they’re an hour delayed Manila time), the plane touched down at Bangkok International Airport.  I was really scared to face the Bangkok immigration officer for fear of being rejected and returned from airport to airport. I have heard such stories but not in Bangkok but SG. Surprisingly, the officer didn’t even say a word, my entry to Bangkok was really smooth. While on the line waiting for my passport to be handed back to me , a young diplomat entering a special entry on the other side greeted the flight stewardess w/ a “namaste-like” gesture. A slight bow made with hands pressed together, palms touching and fingers pointed upwards, in front of the chest. I used the gesture during my entire stay in Thailand whenever I thank a local who helped me.

since i cnt take a photo of myself while sleeping, i took his photo instead, we have the same exact position while sleeping at the aiport waiting for sunrise

Going down the airport to the ground level, I was greeted by faceless crowd, mostly travel agents waiting for their clients. I went straight to look for the nearest comfort room. It’s 2am, what do I do now. I read in the forums that I could actually sleep at the aiport, taking a cab to Khao San Road will cost me 500B plus, I have no place to stay yet so walking along KSR to find a cheap hostel at 3am would be a bad idea. I decided to take the airport express shuttle bus by 6am for 150B. I stayed at Gate 8, saw a free map of Bangkok and took a copy, secured my belongings and slept at the bench until 6am.

inside the free shuttle bus

At 6:30 am, the airport shuttle bus is still nowhere. I saw some locals took the free shuttle bus to the Transport Terminal, got curious and since I am too excited to see the rest of Bangkok, I hopped in. I remember reading one post online saying taking this route is not recommended, it’s only for the adventurous. Well, I am! haha Bus 551 is the closest I could get to Khao San road, bus stops at Victory Monument.

@ the Transport Center

awww..Destination--> HaPpY LaNd!!! =) i wish! but I'm taking Bus 551 to Victory Monument

My 1st encounter to speak w/ a Thai is at the Transport Center.  That’s when I realized that my friend Agnes was indeed right. The bus driver couldn’t understand what I’m saying, not even Khao San Road, later on I learned that it’s pronounced differently in Thai and if you add road to Khao San, they would barely understand that English word, instead use Thannon Khao San or just plain Khao San.

The Victory Monument

The bus ride cost me 35B, it’s roughly an hour and 30 min ride to Victory Monument, and there’s a couple of buses and cabs from there. I had to ask 5 people to get the right info, some couldn’t understand me again. I took Bus 69 from Victory Monument to  Khao San Road and it’s not even gonna pass in KSR but along the highway where you could walk towards a main road and turn left to Khao San.

the famous Khao San Rd

At 8am, finally, the beautiful yet blinding rays of the sun greeted me at Khao San Road.  Now the next thing is, finding a cheap place to stay for my entire stay…

For a comprehensive guide of Bangkok Airport Transportation. Click Here

April 2010 @ Bkk airport wearing my Khao San Rd souvenir shirt I got frm my trip back in Dec 2009

  Copyright secured by Digiprove © 2010 Gael Hilotin

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Kindly refer to this website for more details : Bangkok Airport Rail link services

You can either take  a free shuttle bus, public bus, airport bus, cab, car rental,  & limousine  from bangkok airport to your destination:

Bangkok Airport Shuttle Bus Service

Free shuttle bus service is provided for passengers and airport staff. Expess route connects the main terminal directly to the transport center. Ordinary route connects to other airport facilities. For passenger convenience shuttle buses serving Suvarnabhumi airport are low-floor type.
Shuttle Bus Express Route:

1. Passenger terminal
2. Car rental center
3. Public transportation center and bus terminal

Shuttle Bus Ordinary Route:

1. Bus terminal
2. Car rental center
3. Long term parking
4. WFS’s GSE, BAFS
5. TG’s GSE services
6. TG operation center
7. TG Technical Department
8. Suvarnabumi Airport Concourse A (Landside Curb)
9. Suvarnabumi Airport Concourse D (East Landside Curb)
10. Suvarnabumi Airport Concourse D (West Landside Curb)
11. Suvarnabumi Airport Concourse G (Landside Curb)
12. Free Zone Pedestrian Enterance (East)
13. D-CAP, TG Catering
14. Fire and Rescue Department

Public Bus

24 hour public bus service is provided from the Bus Terminal at the Transport Center. Take a shuttle bus (Express route) to the Transport Center

Bus fare is 35 baht.

Public Bus Service to Bangkok and area.

Bus Number 549 – Suvarnabhumi Airport – Minburi

Bus No.549 connects Suvarnabhumi Airport to Minburi via Ladkrabang Road, taking a right turn to Rom Klao Road, cutting left to Sihaburanukit Road, taking left turn to Seri Thai Road. End the route at Bangkapi.

Bus Number 550 – Suvarnabhumi Airport – Happy Land

Bus No.550 connects Suvarnabhumi Airport to Happy Land via Ladkrabang Road, On-Nut Road, turning right to Sri Nakarin Road, turning left to Ladprao Road and turning right to Happy Land.

Bus Number 551 – Suvarnabhumi Airport – Victory Monument (Expressway)

Bus No.551 connects Suvarnabhumi Airport to the Victory Monument via New Bangkok – Chonburi expressway to Srirat expressway for exit at Rama 9 toll gate to continue further along Asoke-Dindang Road and Rachawithi Road for the final stop at the Victory Monument.

Bus Number 552 – Suvarnabhumi Airport – On Nut BTS station

Bus No.552 connects Suvarnabhumi Airport to the On-Nut sky train station via Bangna-Bangpakong Road, taking a right turn to Sukhumvit Road until the On-Nut sky train station.

Bus Number 553 – Suvarnabhumi Airport – Samut Prakan

Bus No.553 connects Suvarnabhumi Airport to Samut Prakan province via Ladkrabang Road, taking a left turn to Kingkaew Road, turning right to Bangna-Bangpakong Road, turning left to Sri Nakarin Road, turning right to Sukhumvit Road, turning left to Sai Luad Road until Samut Prakan.

Bus Number 554 – Suvarnabhumi Airport – Don Muang Airport (Expressway)

Bus No.554 connects Suvarnabhumi Airport to Don Muang Airport via New Bangkok-Chonburi expressway, turning right to the eastern ring road, taking a left turn to Ramintra Road, Changwattana Road, turning right to Vibhavadi Rangsit Road until reaching Don Muang Airport.

Bus Number 555 – Suvarnabhumi – Rangsit (Expressway)

Bus No.555 connects Suvarnabhumi Airport to Rangsit via Department of Employment – PTT Don – Muang – Vibhavadi Rangsit Junction – Rangsit.

Bus Number 556 – Suvarnbhumi – Southern Bus Terminal (Expressway)

Bus No.556 connects Suvarnabhumi Airport to Southern Bus Terminal via Yommarat – Democracy Monument – Thammasat University – Pata Department Store – Southern Bus Terminal.

Bus Number 557 – Suvarnabhumi – Wongwien Yai

Bus No.557 connects Suvarnabhumi Airport to Wongwien Yai via Rom Klao Junction – Chalarat Hospital9 – Technology Business Administration School, Samut Prakan – Chalarat Hospital 4 – Rung Chareon Market – Suksawat Road – Ratburata Hospital – Wat Sawetchat – Wongwien Yai.

Bus Number 558 - Suvarnabhumi – Central Rama 2

Bus No.558 connects Suvarnabhumi Airport to Central Rama 2 via Central Park Hospital – Chalarat Hospital 1 – Ramkamhaeng 2 Junction – Srinakarin Junction – Bang Na – Soi Lasan – Rung Chareon Market – Suksawat Road – Lotus Bang Na – Bang Pakaeo – Bhuthabucha Junction – Bang Mod Hospital – Central Rama 2.

Bus Number 559 – Suvarnabhumi – Future Park Rangsit

Bus No.559 connects Suvarnabhumi Airport to Future Park Rangsit via Dream World – Ek Prathum Hospital – Future Park Rangsit.

Public Bus Service to other provinces.

Bus Number 389 – Suvarnabhumi Airport – Pattaya
Bus Number 390 – Suvarnabhumi Airport – Talad Rong Kluea
Bus Number 825 – Suvarnabhumi Airport – NongKhai

Airport Express to Bangkok Hotels

Airport Express provides air-conditioned bus service between Suvarnabhumi Airport and first-class Bangkok hotels.

Airport Express operates 4 bus routes to downtown. The cost is 150 baht for entire route. Airport Express service operates from 5:00 am to midnight.

Contact Airport Express Counter Level 1, near Entrance 8.
Pick up area at the Arrivals level – 2nd floor (inner curb).
Drop off area at the Departures level – 4th floor (inner curb).

AE1 Suvarnabhumi-Silom (by expressway)

Bus Stop     Hotel, Inn, Condominium
1. Petchaburi soi 30 (under flyover)  –>  Pratunam
2. Wolrd trade / Central Wolrd Plaza  –>   Arnoma Hotel, Isetan
3. BTS, Rachdamri Station
4. Lumpini Park
5. Saladaeng (on Rama 4 Road) Surawong Road  –>  Pan Pacific Hotel, Robinson Silom
6. Montien Hotel –>  Thaniya, Patpong
7. Tawana Ramada Hotel
8. Plaza Hotel
9. Surawong Soi Kamjai Iamsuri  –>  Manohra Hotel
10. Charoen Krung soi 47/1, Silom Road –>   Song Samai, New Trocadero Hotel
11. Lertsin Hospital –>  State Tower
12. Central Silom –>   Holiday Inn
13. Silom Soi 26  –> Silom Village, Indian Temple
14. Narai Hotel (Silom Soi 18) –>  222 Hotel, Tower Inn
15. Sofitel Hotel (Silom Soi 12) –>  Sofitel Silom /Niagala Hotel
16. Silom Soi 6 (Bangkok Bank) –>  Trinity Complex, Soi Lalaisup
17. BTS, Saladang Station  –> Thaniya, Patpong, CP Tower

AE2 Suvarnabhumi-Khao San Road (by expressway)

Bus Stop     Hotel, Inn, Condominium
1. Petchaburi soi 30 (under flyover)  –> Pratunam
2. Platinum Fashion Mall –> Amari Water Gate, Pantip Plaza
3. Petchaburi Soi 20 –>  First Hotel, Rajthevee Tower
4. Petchaburi Soi 10 –>   Asia Hotel, Samran Place
5. Urupong
6. Sapan Kao
7.Thai Airways (Lan luang)  –> Royal Princess Hotel
8. Wat Rachnatda (Temple)
9. Democracy Monument
10. Royal/Ratanakosin Hotel
11. National Theater –>  Sawasdi Hotel
12. Pra A-Thit Rd.
13. Phra-sumen
14. Khaosan Rd.

AE3 Suvarnabhumi-Sukhumvit – Wireless Road

Bus Stop     Hotel, Inn, Condominium
1. Sukhumvit Soi 52-50 –> BTS, On Nut Station, Lotus
2. Prakanong Market  –> Klongton (Sukhumvit 81)
3. Eastern Bus Terminal –>  Ekamai (Sukhumvit 63)
4. Sukhumvit Soi 38 –>  BTS, Thonglor Station
5. Sukhumvit Soi 34–> Rex Hotel
6. Sukhumvit Soi 24  –>  Emporium, BTS Prom-Phong
7. Sukhumvit Soi 20 –>  Novotel Hotel, Sukhumvit
8. Sukhumvit Soi 18 –>  Westin Hotel, Robinson
9. Sukhumvit Soi 10 (Bangkok Bank)  –> Manhattan Hotel, Ambassador Hotel
10. Sukhumvit Soi 6 –> Amari Boulevard, Landmark, Bel-aire
11. Sukhumvit Soi 2 –> JW Marriot Hotel, Majestic Grande
12. Central Silom, Rachdamri Road
13. World Trade/Central World Plaza –> Arnoma Hotel, Isetan, Zen
14. Phetchaburi Soi 25 –> Pratunam Center, Metropolis
15. Phetchaburi Soi 35 –>  Bangkok Palace H., Eastern H.
16. Soi Nana–> Zenith H., Grace H., Bumrungrad Hospital

AE4 Suvarnabhumi-Hua Lamphong (by expressway)

Bus Stop     Hotel, Inn, Condominium
1. Victory Monument
2. Soi Rangnam
3. 99 Hotel –> BTS, On Nut Station, Lotus
4. BTS, Phayathai Station –>Florida Hotel
5. Live Stock Department
6. BTS, Rachatewee Station–> Asia Hotel
7. Siam Discovery Center –> Siam Center, Siam Paragon
8. Maboonkrong (MBK) –> Pathumwan Princess H.
9. Chulalongkorn University
10. Mandarin Hotel
11. Bangkok Centre Hote
12. Hua Lumpong Railway Station

Public taxi stand is located on Level 1 (Ground Level).

> Contact Taxi counter, Level 1 – Ground Level, near entrances 3, 4, 7 and 8.

> Pick up area: taxi stand Level 1 – Ground Level

> Taxi fare: metered taxi fare plus 50 Baht airport surcharge, and expressway fees.

> Public taxis serving Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi airport must be less than 5 years old.

> Public taxi drives must be certified by Airports of Thailand.

> Passenger drop off at Departures (level 4 – outer curb).

Limousine

To get a limousine contact the “Limousine Service Counter” at the Arrivals level (2nd floor). Limousine pick up area is at the Arrivals Level (outer curb).

* 6 types of limousines with total of 380 cars available around the clock.
* A call center for inbound reservations.
* Airports of Thailand is in change of limousine operations.
* Contact Limousine Counter, Level 2, Baggage Claim Hall and Arrival Hall.
* Limousine fare at set rates.

Source: Bangkok Airport

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