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Neak Pean is one my personal favorites, it’s also called the “The Entwined Serpents” because of the curved of Nagas (snakes) running around the base of the temple structure representing the naga kings Nanda and Upananda.
In the 12th century, King Jayavarman VII is said to have ordered the construction of a vast baray (reservoir) to provide water to its workers. (more…)
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Angkor Wat is believed to be both a funerary temple for King Suryavarman IIand a temple to honor the Hindu deity Vishnu primarily because it is oriented to the west which symbolizes the death and the setting sun. The bas-reliefs, designed for viewing in an anti-clockwise direction which is practiced in Hindu funerary rites is said to support this purpose.
On my third day in Siem Reap, I couldn’t contain my excitement anymore, I know I have to visit the Angkor temples. While most tourists visit the temple at sunrise with their tuktuk and tour guide, I was still on a deep sleep.
At 7am, I went out and rented a blue bike for $1.5 and headed to the road leading to Angkor. Unfortunately, I noticed dark clouds started moving in the sky, and in a few minutes it drizzled. I went back. Blame it on the weather, my bed missed me that fast. So I took a nap and woke up at 12 noon. At that point, the intense heat of the sun is getting through my skin, but I can’t waste another day, I just wasted one, the day before. I biked in the heat of the sun and after a few meters reached the ticket booth, I bought a 3 day ticket for $40 but I just wasted half day of it on my bed.
And while it is suggested to tourist to leave Angkor Wat as their final stop I couldn’t hold my fervor! I planned to do the entire tour of the temples with a bike. Crazy! But it’s the cheapest way to tour the temples (other than walking and hitching a ride) and you can do it in your own pace without being bothered by anyone but the kid vendors. Biking towards Angkor Wat from Siem Reap will just take a few minutes. After passing by the bustling city of Siem Reap crowded with accommodations from posh & mid-range hotels to cheap guesthouses it felt like I was suddenly transported to a scenic and nostalgic town.
I was surrounded by huge trees and I mean really huge trees proudly standing on an orange ground! And as I slowly reached the dead end, I am to choose, whether I should turn right to Banteay Srey Temple or left to Angkor Wat on what seemed like a circular road leading to the great Angkor temples with the Angkor river on its backdrop. I chose left and stopped by the river. I love rivers, sitting on its bank is nostalgic and brings tears to my eyes.
No matter how much I want to stay at the river though I know I have to use the ticket. So I took my blue bike and started cycling towards the most famous and the largest and best preserved monument of the Angkor group, no other than Angkor Wat. As I was nearing the temple, I felt what everyone felt the very first time they behold this architectural masterpiece. Angkor Wat is sublime.
I parked near the river and gazed it from afar together with some locals, I was teary-eyed. I don’t know if it’s just the river that made me wept, or it’s because I am viewing the temple by the river with some locals and children that if it weren’t for my camera that’s attracting too much attention I would’ve easily blended with them. Or maybe it’s the disbelief that after all these years and after all I’ve been through to get to Cambodia, I am finally standing there. Perhaps it’s a mixture of it all. I tell you oftentimes I get too emotional during my travels, especially when a beautiful place strikes me and it is contradicted by the poverty in its surroundings. I see poor little children that has to work at a very young age, I just feel so useless, and that’s exactly what I felt in Cambodia.
I didn’t research well for my Cambodia tour so I have no idea what to see, except for the famed Ta Prom and Angkor Wat, since their photos are all over the world wide web . I didn’t rely on a book or a map, just following where the road would lead me this time. It is suggested though that you get a Khmer guide, to learn more about the temple’s history and the best place or spots to take photos, but if you’re a cheap skate then research before you go!
I guess my biggest mistake is not getting a map or researching about the temples first before I get there. But I guess because I am such a curious ass and I really spent time in each temple so I didn’t miss that much, not to mention that whenever there are tourists with guides, I listen to them. Poor me!
After my emotional encounter with Angkor Wat by the river banks, I headed to the crowded parking lot and kid vendors running from everywhere offering drinks, books, postcards and foods. I biked through the not-so-crowded part of the ground, one girl offered me Fanta which by the way is my official drink during my entire stay in Siem Reap! ”Buy Fanta from me and me, and my sisters will watch your bike, for $1 drink ,” said the vendor kid. I agreed and she lead me towards the area where there “moving store” is located.
What I like about the friendly vendors in Cambodia is their after sale service. They never fail to say thank you and convince you to come back. Well, of course, that’s my first encounter with Khmer kid vendors, and if you get to meet the same insistent kids in every temple, sooner or later you will get annoyed.
I crossed the dusty road and walked towards the west gate where a long busy causeway guarded by 2 lions in the midst of the moat leading to a sandstone covering the façade and full view of the central towers which then leads the main prang , the guards checked my pass and I heard they are really very strict when it comes to that. I set aside my emotions and started taking pictures. It is indeed vast! Before getting to the main temple, a lonely cross-shaped structure on the left side caught my attention, I learned later on that it’s the so-called library, there’s this same structure on the right side of the causeway.
I went down the stairs and took vanity photos inside the library. From there I saw what seemed like an artificial lake , a basin filled with water. I have seen impressive photos online taken from that location. I didn’t even realized until I got home and looked at the photos that from that site on the left basin, one can take a photo or view the 5 central domes as symbolized in the Cambodian flag.
I headed back to the causeway, it’s Cambodian New Year so just imagine the crowd, the main prang of the temple is under construction, so green nets covered it. Fail! At that point, I have three options; to follow the bas-relief to the left, move forward or proceed to the right.
The bas-relief on the right caught my attention so I viewed it counterclockwise. For me, the most amazing part of the temple aside from the view on the top of the temple is the bas-relief. The gallery at the West gate depicts the “ Battle of Kurukshetra ( a province in India)” which is the main subject of the epic Mahabharata.
On the south gate gallery, the main subject is the Army of King Suryavarman II, where the King himself is seen standing on an elephant surrounded by his servants and Vishnu is standing on a garuda (a supernatural eagle-like being that serves as Vishnu’s mount) and the Judgment by Yama (the supreme Judge) Heaven and Hell. It is said that this gallery is evidence that it was created after the King’s death.
On the East Gallery is a well-known episode in the Puranas, the Samudra manthan or Churning of the Ocean Milk which takes place during the second ascent of Vishnu (when he was incarnated as a turtle Kurma). The sole purpose of this is to give rise to Amrita (the elixir of life). If you’ve been to Suvarnabhumi Airport (Bangkok) you can also see it depicted there with Vishnu in the center.
Unfortunately the ”Churning of the Ocean Milk” walkway & the West gate is under construction, so tourists were instructed to walk down the stairs and proceed to the North gate which portrays the victory of Krsna over Bana, the Demon King and Battle between the Gods and Demons.
I didn’t follow it, and instead walked back to the courtyard and saw a steep stairways leading to the central towers where several tourists and even monks are lined up. At that point, I was prohibited to use a tripod and had to cover my back and sleeves with a bolero.
What I like about walking on the gallery of the upper dome is the view of its impressive surroundings of the countryside as well as the perfect balance and grandeur of Angkor Wat.
I walked back and headed towards the North Gallery and I was struck by a walkway surrounded by trees. It feels like walking in autumn but it’s eerie as I was the only one walking there. The path leads to another structure that is severely damaged but if you walk inside and exit it on the other side, you’ll be rewarded by a beautiful view of the river with cows relaxing on the river bank.
There’s another path leading towards I don’t really know where, but most likely to the countryside. At that point I have to stop. I walked back towards Angkor Wat and I realized how magnificent it is from that view.
I spent a couple of minutes sitting on the North Side of the temple and decided to grab a drink while waiting for the sun to set without realizing that the sunset can’t be viewed there! That’s what you get when you don’t have a compass or map or didn’t research about the place.
Vendors, souvenirs, foods etc. are bursting in this area. I ordered food which is a long wait by the way and a sugarcane shake. We use to eat sugarcane in the province when I was a kid, so I was curious how the shake taste.
Mind you once you sit and eat on every food stalls in each temple, you’ll be bugged by kids selling postcards, books, bags, etc. I bought a book about Angkor Wat for $1, it’s full of pictures only, not much to neither see nor read, and I regret not buying the bigger book for $5. I sat with the children & waited 3 hours till sunset, I was getting bored and it’s getting dark, yet of course, sunset is nowhere.
I whispered to the sky, as I walked back to the basin on the left to take a last keepsake of Angkor Wat. I will forever remember that unexplainable sensation I’ve felt when I first saw you.
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* The title was derived from the profound movie ”In the Mood for Love” by Kar Wai Wong. If you’ve seen its finale which was shot in Angkor Wat, it features the most beautiful yet saddest ending in a love story. Nothing, I just want to quote it. *wink
*I wouldn’t recommend biking the entire temples though, it is tiring and dangerous especially at night as the street gets really dark and the traffic gets heavy, I almost got into an accident twice because of biking at night. But if you are adventurous and a cheap skate like me, then rent a tuktuk on your 1st day to visit the far temples like Bantey Srey and you can bike Angkor Wat and the temples near it on your 2nd day, just don’t wait till it gets dark before you go back to Siem Reap.
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